Today was the 3rd day of our trip and I was super psyched to try “Planet of the Apes” again.  My previous session, I had worked out most of the moves and had a high point by touching but not sticking the final crimp.  At first, I had a pretty tough time on the problem today.  I managed to make it to my high point several times, but for the life of me, could not stick the last crimper.

Planet of the Apes (V7).  Photo Aaron Parlier.

I had Aaron and Vera help me out, stacking pads so I could try the last move and after a handful of different beta goes, I figure out clutch beta!  I kept dead pointing to the crimper and my feet cut.  I just couldn’t keep my feet on.  Well, I wasn’t really punching far for the edge and realized that the top of the boulder was only about 5 more inches (easily stickable) though I wasn’t sure how good it was.

Well, from the pad stacks, I stuck it and realized I hit gold.  Not only was it a good sloper, but it had a nice divot in it!!!!!  I was so excited.  I wasn’t sure if the problem was going to go today, but I knew (for the first time on it) that I could do it.  I rested about 15 to 20 minutes and then after a foot skitter at the start, managed to send it!!!!! I was so excited!!!!  I beach whaled the topout (standard beta) then ran to the top of the boulder and sat down for a while to enjoy the perfect view and the perfect temps.

Vera Varmbumm on Two Finger Variation V9 – New Joes.

Our Campsite