Today was the 3rd day of our trip and I was super psyched to try “Planet of the Apes” again. My previous session, I had worked out most of the moves and had a high point by touching but not sticking the final crimp. At first, I had a pretty tough time on the problem today. I managed to make it to my high point several times, but for the life of me, could not stick the last crimper.
|Planet of the Apes (V7). Photo Aaron Parlier.|
I had Aaron and Vera help me out, stacking pads so I could try the last move and after a handful of different beta goes, I figure out clutch beta! I kept dead pointing to the crimper and my feet cut. I just couldn’t keep my feet on. Well, I wasn’t really punching far for the edge and realized that the top of the boulder was only about 5 more inches (easily stickable) though I wasn’t sure how good it was.
Well, from the pad stacks, I stuck it and realized I hit gold. Not only was it a good sloper, but it had a nice divot in it!!!!! I was so excited. I wasn’t sure if the problem was going to go today, but I knew (for the first time on it) that I could do it. I rested about 15 to 20 minutes and then after a foot skitter at the start, managed to send it!!!!! I was so excited!!!! I beach whaled the topout (standard beta) then ran to the top of the boulder and sat down for a while to enjoy the perfect view and the perfect temps.
|Vera Varmbumm on Two Finger Variation V9 – New Joes.|