Flashback Series #4: Freerider – The Forgotten First Flash of El Cap

By Mark Anderson Every so often somebody asks me for beta on Freerider. Freerider is a ~35-pitch ~5.12d free route up the Southwest Face of the world’s premier granite wall: El Capitan in Yosemite. Mike and I climbed Freerider in Team Redpoint* style in May 2004, making the 9th ascent of the route and becoming…

Front Range Fridays: The Best Moderates in the Front Range

Welcome to Front Range Fridays. For the next 5 weeks our athletes and staff will be sharing their favorite test pieces, best winter crags, and top secret spots in Colorado's Front Range. Today, we start with the top 4 moderates in the Front…

Kid-Friendly Via Ferrata in the Dolomites

By Mark Anderson When Kate and I were debating European vacation options last spring, a big factor in the decision was Via Ferrata. During our last trip (to France) I introduced Logan to the activity and it was one of the highlights of the trip. What I love about it is that it provides a practical…

VOTE!

Tuesday, November 6 2018, is Election Day in the United States.  Please vote! In the last national election (in 2016), ~60% of eligible voters cast ballots.  If you’re young, it gets worse–less than half of those aged 18 to 29 voted last time! Amazingly, it gets even worse!  Tuesday’s election is a “Mid-Term” election, meaning the President…

Sport Climbing in Canada Part 2

By Mark Anderson The primary purpose of our short trip was to share this beautiful place with our kids and reacquaint ourselves with the range—the backdrop for many of our fondest adventures. After the Grand Sentinel day we took the kids to Lake Louise and up to the Plain of Six Glaciers.  It ends just…
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Better Beta: 5 Ways to Break Through

Fall is sending season. Time for breaking into that next grade, sending that nemesis rig, and time for some good old-fashioned try-hard. Sending at your limit is all about the details - the micro beta, the mental game, and every iota of body…

Sport Climbing in Canada Part 1

By Mark Anderson A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of meeting long-time climber and developer of the Sloper Climbing App Jeff Moore. The Sloper Climbing App is the next big thing in smart phone climbing tech. It’s definitely worth checking out, but that’s not what this post is about. Jeff lives in Canmore,…

VIDEO: A Day in Vedauwoo with Pamela Shanti Pack

Ever wonder what it's like to climb with an offwidth legend? This summer, we spent a day romping around Vedauwoo's storied wide cracks and chatting with Pamela Shanti Pack and partner Devin Fin.

Pamela Shanti Pack Joins Team Trango

For over a decade, Pamela Shanti Pack has pushed the limits of offwidth climbing. From Vedauwoo to Indian Creek, her technical creativity and never say die attitude have helped her put up dozens of tough ascents. Welcome to the team, Pam!…
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Exploring the Tre Cime

By Mark Anderson As we wandered over the many passes and marveled at the gob smacking peaks of the Dolomites, I definitely got “the itch” to climb something big. I’ve become a true sport climber over the last decade, especially since my kids arrived, but it hasn’t always been that way. I was first drawn…

Stoke(less)tember: What to do when you’re broke on stoke

It's finally September. You've spent the summer thumbing through your guidebook in search of the perfect route. You know every movement by heart and have rehearsed each one over and over during those long hangboard sessions. You've visualized…

Striking Distance

By Mark Anderson Last year I stumbled upon a rad little north-facing cliff I’m calling the Gaudi Wall (for famed Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi).  In fact the wall is not exactly “little”, with pitches up to 38 meters.  The rock is super high-quality Gneiss–I would argue some of the best in Colorado. I put in about 20 routes…