Lion’s Head Part 1!

I typed a trip report while at Lion's Head - I'm gonna post it in parts....I'm holding photos hoping to get an article in DPMDay 0:…was basically that – Day 0 – driving….about 8 or 9 hours of it with stops from Pittsburgh, to the campsite which...
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CB BLAK: A Mnemonic to Save Your Ass

About 20 years ago my partner and I were inspecting the route "Sequential" in the Kloof Alcove in Eldo. I rapped off first and, just when I had gone into free-hanging mode about 5' below the edge of the roof, one end of the rappel ropes ran…

Why I Hate Cordalettes

Last summer when I was belaying my partner on the Bastille,  another climber came in from the side a began to set up a belay about 15' away. I was at the big ramp on the top of the long first pitch of the Bastille Crack and he came in from…

Wedding and the Red River Gorge

This weekend, I shot photos at Jeremy and Kim Shahan's wedding - definitely a nice and fun wedding =). Being in the area, I decided to boulder at Coopers Rock on Friday. Conditions were hot and moderately swarmy - though temps were DECENT. I ran aro...

The Best Way to Rig the Lower/Rappel off of a Sport Route

Here's a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for daisies or chicken slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points. The leader climbs normally until…
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The Best Sleeping Rig for Pickup Trucks

Hidden in the back of my 2003 Toyota Tacoma is super-simple, super cheap and comfy sleeping rig. It goes in and out in less than a minute, and I can get two bikes and 3 full-height ActionPackers and a cooler inside. I can hang out and cook inside…
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got stump?

I continue to be amazed at the support that the ice climbing community shows for the Ouray Ice Park. Sure, it's a unique resource that draws ice climbers from world-over, but I think there's more going on than that. Maybe it's a community that…
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Big Bros Auctioned off to benefit Giulia “Jumar” Luebben

Craig Luebben is near and dear to all of us and his loss dealt to a body blow to the entire climbing and guiding community. Craig, who invented the Big Bros while he was an engineering student at CSU, has been receiving a nice royalty stream…