Comparing Campus Board Configurations

Last year I discussed at length the benefits of Campus Training, how to perform a Campus workout, and how to fit such workouts into your training schedule.  Next week I plan to describe how to get the most out of your campus sessions.  Campusing “well”, will reduce the risk of injury, improve your performance on…

What I Got for Christmas

Christmas came a week early for me this year.  While driving Logan home from downtown Denver to see the impressive light display at City Hall, I received a call from my friend and publisher Jason Haas.  The “Proof” of the Rock Climber’s Training Manual had arrived from the printer!  The proof is a collection of…
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A Pilot Mountain Legend: Lloyd Ramsey…

This is the second time in under a month that I have had to post about the loss of a North Carolina climber.  It’s definitely not getting easier, and I certainly don’t want to make this a habit.  This one really hits me hard because Lloyd Ramsey is someone whom I knew very well.  In fact, I can probably count on one hand the number of times that I’ve climbed at Pilot Mountain and haven’t ran into him.  Lloyd was a staple figure at the park, and anyone who has climbed in the area with any amount of regularity would recognize him.   Not…Read the rest of this entry →

Gear Review: The Trango Smooth Quickdraw

If you asked most of the folks who know me about my fashion sense, they would probably raise an eyebrow and reply, “What fashion sense?” I’ve never been much for style or image. I wear a lot of bland, earth-toned clothes, many of which I’ve had for many years. I buzz-cut my hair  every few […]

Malcolm Daly on NPR

Our very own Malcolm Daly recently sat down with NPR radio and discussed this year's Adventure Film Festival, currently running in Boulder.  To read more and listen to the interview, click on the link below... http://www.cpr.org/article/Risky_Business

Ty Foose featured in Urban Climber

Cool article about Ty Foose in the latest Urban Climber magazine.  Ty was a driving force behind the creation of e-grips. Check out e-grips.com to read more about Ty's pioneering efforts in the world of climbing holds! http://www.e-grips.com/history.html

Kelly Cordes: Head-Bashing 101

We all love Kelly Cordes. After all, he's one of the few climbers out there who can keep up with me in the coveted "Tough To Kill" category. He's also about as badass as you can get in the highly competitive "Alpine Badass" category. We all…

Why I Hate Cordalettes

Last summer when I was belaying my partner on the Bastille,  another climber came in from the side a began to set up a belay about 15' away. I was at the big ramp on the top of the long first pitch of the Bastille Crack and he came in from…

The Best Way to Rig the Lower/Rappel off of a Sport Route

Here's a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for daisies or chicken slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points. The leader climbs normally until…

The Best Sleeping Rig for Pickup Trucks

Hidden in the back of my 2003 Toyota Tacoma is super-simple, super cheap and comfy sleeping rig. It goes in and out in less than a minute, and I can get two bikes and 3 full-height ActionPackers and a cooler inside. I can hang out and cook inside…

Big Bros Auctioned off to benefit Giulia “Jumar” Luebben

Craig Luebben is near and dear to all of us and his loss dealt to a body blow to the entire climbing and guiding community. Craig, who invented the Big Bros while he was an engineering student at CSU, has been receiving a nice royalty stream…