A Look Inside the 2023 Myorcan Expansion
Go big…then go bigger
Like all the uber-classic Myorcan shapes, the 2023 Myorcan Expansion Pack is inspired by the flowstone calcite drips that form on some of the world’s best limestone crags like Kalymnos and Leonidio in Greece, the innumerable cliffs of Catalonia in Spain, Tonsai Beach in Thailand, and, of course, the spectacular deep water soloing destination of Mallorca, Spain. These formations create iconic holds varying from tiny fingertip pinches up to giant tufas that stretch hundreds of vertical feet. In adding shapes to the Myorcan style for 2023, our focus was to go big – and then even bigger – with 10 new holds that are all size 6, 7, or 8.
23 Feet Of Epic Holds
Although there are only 10 new holds in this expansion, they give routesetters plenty of surface area to work with…23 feet to be precise. Here’s a quick look at the sets in this expansion:
Five big tufas that are tall, narrow, and long, ranging from sloping on both sides to incut on both sides. These relatively narrow-grip pinches are similar to the existing Myorcan Tufas II, only 3 to 4 times longer. Gently tapered ends make for difficult foot placement in vertical orientations, which can force sequences that require pinching the hold between both feet, a technique that is unique to tufa climbing.
Holds in this set range from 30″ – 32″ long and 3″ – 4.5″ wide
Three large, bulging tufas that have a diverse range of utility. With a wide radius rolling into deep incuts, these shapes can be used as buckets in the certain orientations or rotated to make for pumpy and powerful moves.
Holds in this set range from 11″ – 14″ long and 16″ – 19.5″ wide
As the largest and most positive shape in the 2023 Myorcan Expansion Pack, the Super Tufa is one massive tufa with multiple grip options along side-by-side columns. One side is slightly incut with a couple of sweet spots, where the other side is more incut and feels juggy on almost any angle.
This hold measures 36″ long and 10.5″ wide
A wide-grip tufa pinch that varies in its length from flat to slightly incut. This shape is useful for moderate grades on slab to slight overhang and will create a wicked pump on steep walls.
This hold measures 34″ long and 5″ wide