Lucas Marques


Uberlândia, Minas Gerais,Brasil

motivation to climb

His main motivation is to always try new things, search for new challenges and meet new people and places

most memorable climb

* First free ascent in Pedra do Sino, RJ, Brazil. ‘Nova era’, 500 meters. * First ascents of two ‘psicobloc’ lines in Paraíso do Talhado, Al, Brazil. ‘Em nome de jah’ and ‘La renaixença’, 30 meters. Redbull Psicobloc Championship. * First 8a + of Minas Gerais in 2016 with the ‘Smoke on the water’ route, in Tabuleiro, MG, Brazil. 300 meters. * First free ascent in one day of ‘Place of Happiness’’, on Pedra Riscada, MG, Brazil. * Redpoint of ‘Patinoso’, 8c + in Siurana, Catalonia, Spain.

favorite climbing spot

In Brazil: Ouro-preto, Conceição, Serra do Cipó, Passa-vinte, Tabuleiro and Pedra Riscada. In Spain: Siurana, Albarracin e Mallorca.


Lucas was born in 1981 in Uberlândia, Brazil, and has a degree in Architecture and Urban Design. For the last 15 years, he has been fully dedicated to all climbing styles. From Bouldering to Big Walls, Lucas has made his mark on some of the most classic routes. His main motivation is to always try new things, search for new challenges and meet new people and places. In 2011 he was the first to put up a free route, “Nova Era” on “Pedra do Sino” and free climb it. In the same year he won RedBull’s Psicobloc competition in Paraíso do Talhado, Alagoas. With the passage of time Lucas honed his skills leading to the award of the Golden Carabiner by “Confederação Brasileira de Montanhismo” (Brazilian Mountaineering Federation) for his sub 24 hour, pioneering free ascent of “Place of Happiness” on “Pedra Riscada”. Among all the climbing styles, the experience of Freesoloing some of Brazil’s most important lines like the imposing “Sinos de Alderbaran” in Serra do Cipo, could not go without mention. For the last two years Lucas has focused his attention on the beautiful walls at “Cachoeira do Tabuleiro” which has led to the first ascents of two hard big wall routes; ‘Hidro no topo” (7c+) and “Smoke on the water” (8a+), the hardest in the state. His hardest sport redpoints are 8b+/8c+ but is now pushing his limits to send a 9a in Spain and Brazil. Between climbing projects, Lucas continues bolting, developing areas and sharing his experiences with the goal of disseminating safety and knowledge for success of others also interested in extreme climbing.