Its always nice to come home and see the family in Pittsburgh. The local climbing area, which I grew up: McConnells Mills is notorious for always been wet and manky, but conditions this weekend were ideal. Ideal such that everything felt like 2 grades easier than normal.

I’ve done pretty much every route/problem there that isn’t ridiculously hard, though I did manage to send a new problem there this weekend – “Playing with a Full Deck” on the Casino boulder. This problem is rated V3 R in the book, though with the bad landing and committing last move, we decided to Top Rope the route. I confirmed the rating at probably 12a or 12b, which translates at McConnells Mill to V3 (+).
Coming fresh off my Hueco trip, I was happy to crush some of my favorite classics there, though I swear some of them felt 2 grades easier. It was the conditions. I finished up the day by running 5 consecutive laps on one of my favorite all-time routes: Mini Ovest aka Peter Pan, that though rated 11d in the book, is 12a all day long. It is a huge roof with logs of jugs, leading to a techy finish. I love this route because its pretty much a Red River Gorge route and caters to all my strengths. Also, it doesn’t have any small holds.