




Setter Spotlight: Movement Gyms – DMV
Earlier in the year we sent the head routesetters of Movement's five gyms throughout the DC area their choice of Trango holds, and paid them a visit to watch the routesetting in action. See their work and read about their approach to setting in this blog post.

El Alma Del Salto (Part II)
During my trip in January 2022, some climbers and I were talking to Ramon and asked if he would host a dinner so we could learn a more complete composition of the origins of El Salto.

Meet Scott Ossim, Trango’s Newest Hold Shaper
Feel the Flower 🌸- Behind the Shapes
Trango's newest shaper, Scott Ossim, draws inspiration for his new Flower line from years of experience in the climbing industry, working with gyms around the world and helping them…

Homewall Series 02: Roy’s Tips for your Best Homewall
Are you ready to get started with your own homewall? In this video Roy Quanstrom, route setter and hold shaper, explains how to get started with your home climbing wall, from choosing your holds to setting your wall.
Roy breaks down how…

Homewall Series 01
How to choose holds, determine wall angles, and start setting.
When it comes to creating the “perfect” home wall, it’s easy to wax poetic about all the nuances of sizes and angles, hold types and densities, and ways to set. For the…

Hueco – Shaped by Nature
From Myorcan, to SoCo and Mammoth Rub, the majority of our most recent shapes have been inspired by the textures we find in nature. Whether through climbing or just passing by, these textures continue to inspire Master Shaper Ty Foose in new…

The Rise of Khan
The Khans, in reference to the character in the Jungle Book, Shere Khan.
There are many reasons this hold line is called what it is. Back in 2018 I took my first trip to Switzerland and I was fortunate enough to climb one of the best boulder…

Stealth – The Story Behind the Shapes
Think ‘2-tex’ meets ‘talons’ meets ‘kaiju’ meets some other genre of climbing hold that is SO COOL there isn’t even a name for it yet. Or maybe its name is STEALTH.
Within the Stealth line you will find geometric volume-like…

eGrips Unifies Under the Trango Brand
The story of Trango’s hold program begins in 1996, in a windowless warehouse in North Boulder. After experiences with disappointing, fragile, and slick polyethylene climbing holds, eGrips looked to a revolutionary new material derived from…


El Alma Del Salto (Part II)
During my trip in January 2022, some climbers and I were talking to Ramon and asked if he would host a dinner so we could learn a more complete composition of the origins of El Salto.

El Alma Del Salto (Part I)
El Alma Del Salto (Part I)
By Trango athlete Karly Rager
Click here to read El Alma Del Salto (Part II).
Air ribbons floss car windows on the road to La Cienéga de González. Their cool poignancy is amplified by the fact that I’ve…



Nate Kenney: Winter Climbing Tips & Tricks
Selecting the right gear for winter alpine and mixed routes presents a challenge: many routes have the same technical protection challenges of their summer variants, with the added complexity of winter weather, carrying more layers, cold…

Vietnam Dreaming – Skiy DeTray
By Trango Athlete Skiy DeTray
Sitting here in these COVID-19 times its best we pursue domestic adventures, but its still fun to reminisce about the wonderful freedoms we had before the world locked its borders. Able to jump on a plane and…

A Day with Pamela Shanti Pack and Devin Fin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiyVynohIPM
Where is your happy place? FrictionLabs Pro Pamela Shanti Pack and Athlete Devin Fin found theirs in the heart of the American desert, establishing first ascents amongst the towering sandstone cliffs…

A Day in Vedauwoo with Pamela Shanti Pack
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lq2CMR5OTDI
Ever wonder what it's like to climb with an offwidth legend? We spent a day romping around Vedauwoo's storied wide cracks and chatting with Pamela Shanti Pack.

Pamela Shanti-Pack on Hypercrack (5.11x)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmcmH0KuMMw
Watch Pamela Shanti-Pack put the #5 Big Bro through the paces on Hypercrack (5.11x) and explain why Big Bros are such an essential piece of gear for offwidth climbing!

Slice of Time—New Eldo 5.14b
By Mark Anderson Injuries suck. Last October I (partially) tore my forearm flexor muscle. At first the injury was relatively minor, but like a climber, I kept climbing and training hard on it for several weeks, and so it evolved into something more troublesome. I spent the next five months or so rehabbing the muscle,…

Front Range Friday: Classic Test Pieces
Welcome to the Front Range Fridays finale
TGV and Vogue at Industrial Wall. Industrial Wall itself feels like a frickin' test piece. For "easier" test pieces, I am partial to Buddha Belly at Eagle Rock, Elephant in the Room at Blob Rock,…

Front Range Fridays: Best Winter Crags
Welcome to Front Range Fridays. Each Friday we're sharing the hidden gems, underrated climbs, and best crags that no one is talking about. This week, we're sharing 5 can't miss crags for winter climbing.
Graveyard Wall, Clear Creek –…

Front Range Fridays: The Most Underrated Routes
Welcome to Front Range Fridays. Over the next few weeks, our athletes and staff will be sharing their secret spots, favorite projects, and local beta. This week, we're revealing our Most Underrated Routes in the Front Range.
Great question!…

Front Range Fridays: The Best Area No One is Talking About
Welcome to Front Range Fridays. Over the next few weeks, our athletes and staff will be sharing their beta on the best routes, favorite areas, and hidden gems in the Front Range. This week, we explore the crags that no one is talking about.
…

Front Range Fridays: The Best Moderates in the Front Range
Welcome to Front Range Fridays. For the next 5 weeks our athletes and staff will be sharing their favorite test pieces, best winter crags, and top secret spots in Colorado's Front Range. Today, we start with the top 4 moderates in the Front…

Better Beta: 5 Ways to Break Through
Fall is sending season. Time for breaking into that next grade, sending that nemesis rig, and time for some good old-fashioned try-hard. Sending at your limit is all about the details - the micro beta, the mental game, and every iota of body…

VIDEO: A Day in Vedauwoo with Pamela Shanti Pack
Ever wonder what it's like to climb with an offwidth legend? This summer, we spent a day romping around Vedauwoo's storied wide cracks and chatting with Pamela Shanti Pack and partner Devin Fin.

The Best Route I Never Sent
As climbers, we are driven by one unifying accomplishment: the send. No matter the grade or the discipline, we are all chasing the elusive top out, the chains, or the summit. Sends gained make for a good tick list, but many of the best stories…

Eastern Offwidths: Big Bros Take on China
When you think of climbing in China, limestone sport routes probably come to mind. This spring, Irene Yee and her crew of offwidth aficionados took on some of China's lesser known terrain...offwidths. Donning a rack of Big Bros and tape gloves,…

Be a Climber: Quitting (and re-creating) Your Day Job
The juxtaposition of my life does not go unnoticed by my closest friends and family. On one hand I love order, control, routine. Type A personality stuff. On the other hand, the well-defined and fully explored bores me to death and I crave adventure,…

Sending Spree: Drew Ruana takes on The New
Wow. I can truly say that the New River Gorge was one of the most beautiful areas I've ever been to. I feel so blessed to have opportunities to visit special places like these. My dad had learned to climb at the New; he had always…

10 Alpine Climbing Tips
Are you dreaming of high alpine peaks? Beautiful sublime faces of rock and ice? Surreal corniced ridges and crimson sunsets? Alpine climbing is one of the most committing and unforgiving forms of climbing, but with a little practice and solid…

Making History at the Red River Gorge
Reason to Celebrate
We are celebrating a huge victory in climbing access at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky as the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund have finalized the purchase of the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve. This…

2017 Ice Festival Schedule – Where We’ll Be
It's the time of the year when long tendrils of snowmelt begin to harden and form some of our favorite ice and mixed climbing formations. Like you, we spend our time scheming new ascents, planning trips to new areas, and optimizing our gear.…

First Ascent: Ethan Pringle Sends “Blackbeard’s Tears” (14c gear)
I finally clipped the chains after freeing all 110 immaculate feet of "Black Beards Tears" yesterday at the Promontory, placing all 15 cams and one stopper on lead! This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever…

First Look: Vergo in Action
We gave the new Vergo belay device to two of the world's top climbers and filmed their day at Eldorado Canyon State Park. Here's what they had to say.
For more information on the Vergo, visit www.TrangoVergo.com

Video: Drew Ruana Establishes 14d at Smith Rock
On February 13, 2016, Drew Ruana made the first ascent of "Assassin" (14d). "Assassin" toppled the classic "Just Do It" (14c) and the unrepeated "Shock and Awe" (14c) as the toughest route at Smith Rock. The first ascent of the Aggro Gully…

Alex Johnson on Projecting, Sending, and Lessons Learned
So much of climbing, especially projecting, is puzzle piecing. It isn’t whether or not you’re strong enough to do the climb, or do each individual move on the climb, but figuring out how to do each move, and configuring the most efficient…

Send Footage: Ethan Pringle on La Reina Mora (14d)
After a month-long battle of hope, frustration, failure, emotion, and eventual success, Ethan Pringle sent the Spanish test-piece, La Reina Mora (14d).
"Well, I really couldn’t have imagined a better last day in Siurana. For…

The Big Year – Part 2: Forging a Partnership
With my sights set on a new alpine route in Alaska in the spring, I needed a partner I could trust and could also commit to the time off. I scrolled through my black book and landed on Canadian crusher Alik Berg. Thing was: we had never…

2015 Ends in Sends – Drew Ruana Sends V14 in Bishop
Team athlete Drew Ruana finished 2015 in style by sending his first V13 and V14 in the same day. That day also happened to be December 31, the last day of a year that included many impressive ascents and accomplishments including 1st place…

Ethan Pringle Sends ‘Jumbo Love’ 15b
Yesterday, Trango and Tenaya athlete Ethan Pringle made the second ascent of 'Jumbo Love' (5.15b), North America's hardest sport climb at Clark Mountain, California. Pringle has been working the route since the mid 2000's and has spent much…

Clinics, Comps, and Top 10 Finishes at Ouray Ice Fest
Each January, we circle the Ouray Ice Festival on our calendars. It's a yearly favorite that affords us the opportunity to climb ice, connect with the climbing community, and talk about our favorite subject: climbing gear. This year was no different…


Vietnam Dreaming – Skiy DeTray
By Trango Athlete Skiy DeTray
Sitting here in these COVID-19 times its best we pursue domestic adventures, but its still fun to reminisce about the wonderful freedoms we had before the world locked its borders. Able to jump on a plane and…

My Mom, The Climber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjYXc7lJOpM
Be a climber. It's about more than just pulling hard and pushing past your high point. Our shared passion is a vehicle to pursue what we love and to encourage others as they do the same. This ethos…

Slice of Time—New Eldo 5.14b
By Mark Anderson Injuries suck. Last October I (partially) tore my forearm flexor muscle. At first the injury was relatively minor, but like a climber, I kept climbing and training hard on it for several weeks, and so it evolved into something more troublesome. I spent the next five months or so rehabbing the muscle,…

Climbing back from Cancer
June 2017
I slowly awake out of a deep anesthesia-induced slumber. I have a massive tube shoved down my throat emptying my stomach contents. My mom is there.
“What happened?” I ask her. I’m still hopeful that when they did the exploratory…

Making History at the Red River Gorge
Reason to Celebrate
We are celebrating a huge victory in climbing access at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky as the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund have finalized the purchase of the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve. This…

2017 Ice Festival Schedule – Where We’ll Be
It's the time of the year when long tendrils of snowmelt begin to harden and form some of our favorite ice and mixed climbing formations. Like you, we spend our time scheming new ascents, planning trips to new areas, and optimizing our gear.…

Season of Giving: Flatirons Climbing Council
In 2015, we launched our first annual Season of Giving and gave 10% of sales at Trango.com through the holiday season to key local climbing organizations that work to maintain and improve access to our favorite areas. This year, we are continuing…

Season of Giving: SLCA
In 2015, we launched our first annual Season of Giving and gave 10% of sales at Trango.com through the holiday season to key local climbing organizations that work to maintain and improve access to our favorite areas. This year, we are…

The Big Year Part 3: Upping the Ante
Two in the afternoon, and I’m shaking uncontrollably. One second I’m freezing, the next I’m burning up. It hurts to move, to breathe, to blink my eyes! I reach for the phone, and call for life support. Uncle Stu,…

The Big Year – Part 1 (casting off)
What would you do with a full year off of work?
A few years back a friend of mine proposed that question. Hmmm. Like school kids we sat around and day dreamed. Patagonia, Pakistan, Nepal, Italy, Spain…. the list went on.…

2015 in Review: What We’re Proud of
Ethan Pringle
Favorite Memory from 2015:
Ok so my fondest memory/most meaningful accomplishment of 2015 is predictably, redpointing Jumbo Love... Kind of anticlimactic, but it really was like, the highlight of my climbing career. It was just…

Partner Spotlight: Flatirons Climbing Council
For the final week of our 2015 Season of Giving, we are giving some love to our neighbors at the Flatirons Climbing Council. Boulder's Flatirons boast some of our favorite climbing and the FCC is working behind the scenes to maintain trails,…

Partner Spotlight: NRAC
Trango is proud to donate 10% of all purchases from December 6-12 to NRAC in order to support ongoing trail building, access and stewardship efforts spearheaded by this group of dedicated local climbers. Join us in supporting NRAC by purchasing…

Spotlight: RRG Climbers Coalition
About the RRGCC
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) is an organization operating in Kentucky’s famed Red River Gorge. The RRGCC is dedicated to ensuring climbing in the Red, known for its steep, pocketed cliffs, stays open for…

Partner Spotlight: Southeastern Climbers Coalition
From November 22-28, Trango is donating 10% of all purchases at www.trango.com to the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. To support the SCC, simply purchase Trango products or become a member of the SCC (link below).
About the Southeastern…

Trango Announces Season of Giving
Each week during the 2015 holiday season Trango is donating 10% of purchases to a different climbing organization. These organizations have been selected based on their positive impacts on local climbing areas, stewardship of climbing access…

Clinics, Comps, and Top 10 Finishes at Ouray Ice Fest
Each January, we circle the Ouray Ice Festival on our calendars. It's a yearly favorite that affords us the opportunity to climb ice, connect with the climbing community, and talk about our favorite subject: climbing gear. This year was no different…

Broken Holds, Near Sends, and Big Whippers on Straits of Gibraltar
The line between work and play are often blurred in our industry - much to our delight. During the recent Bozeman Ice Fest we were able to get away between clinics, demos, and competitions for a few mixed and ice routes in Hyalite Canyon's Bingo…

Marcus Garcia Brings Youth Mixed Climbing Competition to North America
Trango athlete Marcus Garcia is bringing competitive youth mixed climbing to North America on December 30-31, 2014. North America's first-ever UIAA-style youth mixed competition will take place in Durango, CO and will include both speed and…




The Trango Harness Lineup
Our selection of harnesses has something to offer for any type of climbing, and any age of climber! Here's a helpful guide to understanding each harness's best uses and standout features to make your selection easier.
All-Around Harnesses
These…

Choosing your Rock Prodigy
With three unique designs, the Rock Prodigy hangboard family can meet you where you are, and help you tick off your training goals. But - how do you decide which board is best for you? There's more to it than beginner, intermediate, and advanced.…

Nate Kenney: Winter Climbing Tips & Tricks
Selecting the right gear for winter alpine and mixed routes presents a challenge: many routes have the same technical protection challenges of their summer variants, with the added complexity of winter weather, carrying more layers, cold…

Introducing the Vergo by Trango
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCtvZ-9TehA
The Vergo is an all-new assisted braking belay device from Trango. We designed the Vergo with ergonomics in mind, meaning that the most comfortable way to use the Vergo is also the safest way. In…

The Vergo Belay Device by Trango
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QITpvF9SIGs&t=6s
The all-new Vergo belay device brings new dimensions of safety and ergonomics to belaying. Check www.trango.com/vergo for more information.

Eastern Offwidths: Big Bros Take on China
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEwDpVO2lNg
When you think of climbing in China, limestone sport routes probably come to mind. This spring, Irene Yee and her crew of offwidth aficionados took on some of China's lesser known terrain...offwidths.…

Eastern Offwidths: Big Bros Take on China
When you think of climbing in China, limestone sport routes probably come to mind. This spring, Irene Yee and her crew of offwidth aficionados took on some of China's lesser known terrain...offwidths. Donning a rack of Big Bros and tape gloves,…

Tenaya Mundaka: First Look, First Ascent
My latest climbing project—a 5.14 wall of thin edges that gently steepens into a cresting wave of granite at Devil’s Head, CO—presented me with a significant dilemma. The climbing is 80% Smith Rock, precise edging on micro-chips…

Meet Mundaka: USA Launch Tour
Meet Mundaka, Tenaya's most sensitive down-turned shoe ever. The Mundaka's meticulous construction combines an aggressive split-sole to maximize sensitivity and 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber to maintain ample edging power. Tenaya's patented…

VOLUNTARY PRODUCT RECALL: Vergo Belay Device
VOLUNTARY RECALL NOTICE
VERGO BELAY DEVICE
BATCH NUMBERS 16159 AND 16195
14 April 2017 - Trango has elected to voluntarily recall all Trango Vergo belay devices in batch numbers 16159 and 16195 that were sold after 1 October 2016. Please…

Video: How to Uncoil a New Climbing Rope
Let’s be honest – getting a new rope is glorious. After hours of internet research and nerding out on technical questions like “how many grams per meter?” and “what’s the static elongation?”, you came to decisions on diameter,…

Season of Giving: Year 2
In 2015, we launched our first annual Season of Giving and gave 10% of sales at Trango.com through the holiday season to key local climbing organizations that work to maintain and improve access to our favorite areas. This year, we are…

Trango Vergo: Common Questions Answered
The Vergo belay device has officially launched! As we’ve shown it to dealers and users for many months, we’ve learned what many of the most common questions are, and we’ll answer some of them below.
Here are some quick specs to…

Safety, Meet Ergonomics
Safety, Meet Ergonomics.
What if the best way to use a belay device was also the safest? That is the question that we asked ourselves as we began designing the new Vergo Belay Device, coming September 2016.
For more information or to sign…

Tech Tips: How to Uncoil Your New Rope
Let’s be honest – getting a new rope is glorious. After hours of internet research and nerding out on technical questions like “how many grams per meter?” and “what’s the static elongation?”, you came to decisions on diameter,…

New Trango Products Highlighted at Outdoor Retailer
Twice a year the outdoor industry descends upon Salt Lake City in a storm of plaid and technical fabric. The objective: to show off their newest gear innovations for the upcoming season. During this January show, our friends at Gear Coop dropped…

Rock Prodigy Training Center Reviews
Hangboard training, and climbing training as a whole, have traditionally been an inexact science for us (the Trango staff) and many climbers we interact with. Operating as amateur physiologists, we pulled training resources from…


Setter Spotlight: Movement Gyms – DMV
Earlier in the year we sent the head routesetters of Movement's five gyms throughout the DC area their choice of Trango holds, and paid them a visit to watch the routesetting in action. See their work and read about their approach to setting in this blog post.

Meet Scott Ossim, Trango’s Newest Hold Shaper
Feel the Flower 🌸- Behind the Shapes
Trango's newest shaper, Scott Ossim, draws inspiration for his new Flower line from years of experience in the climbing industry, working with gyms around the world and helping them…

Homewall Series 02: Roy’s Tips for your Best Homewall
Are you ready to get started with your own homewall? In this video Roy Quanstrom, route setter and hold shaper, explains how to get started with your home climbing wall, from choosing your holds to setting your wall.
Roy breaks down how…

Homewall Series 01
How to choose holds, determine wall angles, and start setting.
When it comes to creating the “perfect” home wall, it’s easy to wax poetic about all the nuances of sizes and angles, hold types and densities, and ways to set. For the…

Hueco – Shaped by Nature
From Myorcan, to SoCo and Mammoth Rub, the majority of our most recent shapes have been inspired by the textures we find in nature. Whether through climbing or just passing by, these textures continue to inspire Master Shaper Ty Foose in new…

Stealth – The Story Behind the Shapes
Think ‘2-tex’ meets ‘talons’ meets ‘kaiju’ meets some other genre of climbing hold that is SO COOL there isn’t even a name for it yet. Or maybe its name is STEALTH.
Within the Stealth line you will find geometric volume-like…

eGrips Unifies Under the Trango Brand
The story of Trango’s hold program begins in 1996, in a windowless warehouse in North Boulder. After experiences with disappointing, fragile, and slick polyethylene climbing holds, eGrips looked to a revolutionary new material derived from…



Alex Johnson’s Training Tips
By Trango athlete Alex Johnson
My approach to training has changed exponentially over the years. When I was young, it was just climbing a ton at the gym, maybe some 4x4’s, sometimes coupled with some lay-on-the-floor core exercises…

Choosing your Rock Prodigy
With three unique designs, the Rock Prodigy hangboard family can meet you where you are, and help you tick off your training goals. But - how do you decide which board is best for you? There's more to it than beginner, intermediate, and advanced.…

Onsight Climbing – Definition, Nuances & Tips!
By Karly Rager Priest
Hey there! I’m Karly – I am a Trango athlete and a Certified Personal Trainer, and I run my own coaching business, Project Direct Coaching (@projectdirect_coaching). I work with a lot of climbers, and many, many…

Better Beta: 5 Ways to Break Through
Fall is sending season. Time for breaking into that next grade, sending that nemesis rig, and time for some good old-fashioned try-hard. Sending at your limit is all about the details - the micro beta, the mental game, and every iota of body…

Training Takeover: Power Endurance and Linked Bouldering Circuits
Today is the last day of our two week Training Takeover of the Trango social media channels. We have laid out the framework for an 8 week training plan that will help you jump start your climbing training and push yourself to new levels.…

Training Takeover: Intro to Campus Board Training
Last week we began our two week Training Takeover of the Trango social media channels. We laid out the framework for an 8 week training plan that will help you jump start your climbing training and push yourself to new levels. This program…

Training Takeover: What is Limit Bouldering?
Yesterday we announced our two week Training Takeover of the Trango social media channels. We laid out the framework for an 8 week training plan that will help you jump start your climbing training and push yourself to new levels.…

Training Takeover: How to Install and Use Your Hangboard
Tuesday we announced our two week Training Takeover of the Trango social media channels. We laid out the framework for an 8 week training plan that will help you jump start your climbing training and push yourself to new levels. This…

Training Takeover: ARC Training Primer
Yesterday we announced our two week Training Takeover of the Trango social media channels. We laid out the framework for an 8 week training plan that will help you jump start your climbing training and push yourself to new levels. This program…

The Original Campus Board
As soon as Kate and I committed to a trip to Germany, I started looking for information on “The Campus Center”, the birthplace (and namesake) of the Campus Board. Legend has it that Wolfgang Gullich was looking for a new way to train explosive power for a new cutting-edge route he was trying in the…


Rock Prodigy Training Center Reviews
Hangboard training, and climbing training as a whole, have traditionally been an inexact science for us (the Trango staff) and many climbers we interact with. Operating as amateur physiologists, we pulled training resources from…

Adjustable Mount 2.0 for the Rock Prodigy Training Center
In a previous article, we showed you how to build an Adjustable Mount for your Rock Prodigy Training Center so that you can take maximum advantage of the built in ergonomics of the most innovative fingerboard on the market. While it gets the job done, the French Cleat technique described in that article is difficult…


Optimizing Post Exercise Recovery
The following is a guest-post from Seiji Ishii, well known to readers of the RCTM forum as “Coach Seiji”. Coach Seiji has an extensive background in Exercise Physiology, has coached world-class athletes in various sports, including stints working for Carmichael Training Systems and Ultrafit. He currently trains professional supercross/motocross athletes and operates a CrossFit gym…


How to Build a Campus Board
Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is a unfortunate because; as described in the…


Adjustable Mount for the RPTC
Ever since I first conceived of the Rock Prodigy Training Center, I’ve been pondering a cheap and simple mounting system that would allow for instantaneous spacing adjustments. Once the RPTC was unveiled I got a number of great ideas from other climbers. Julian Marks suggested a “French Cleat” system in this Mountain Project thread, which uses…


Designing A Transition Phase
In this post I introduced the concept of the Transition Phase. This is the several-week period during each training cycle in which you shift your focus from primarily indoor training to primarily outdoor climbing (and sending!). Chapter 10: Building a Seasonal Training Plan from the forthcoming “The Rock Climber’s Training Manual” thoroughly describes how to…


How’s Your Hang?
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available! Order your signed copy HERE We get a lot of comments from folks that they would love to use the Rock Prodigy training method, but they can’t because they don’t have access to the right tools; primarily a hangboard and campus board. They may live in…


The Most Important Phase
Throughout my first several years of systematic training, I believed the Strength Phase (in which hangboard training is the primary activity) was the most “important” phase. That is, I thought the quality of the Strength Phase was the key predictor of whether the upcoming season would be successful or not. If the phase was flat, I…


Tips for Effective Campusing Part 2: Going Big!
As implied here, I’m inspired by the climbing career of the legendary Jerry Moffatt. During his prime, Moffatt was the best climber in the world, and he dominated on redpoints, onsights, boulders and competitions. What inspires me most though, was his … Continue reading →


Tips for Effective Campusing Part 1: The Basics
Campusing is one of the best training activities for climbers who are looking to improve explosive power and contact strength (detailed rundown on these terms here). However, campusing is one of the most difficult training activities to perform well. Many would-be campusers struggle during the initial stages of learning to use this tool, they become frustrated, and so…


Comparing Campus Board Configurations
Last year I discussed at length the benefits of Campus Training, how to perform a Campus workout, and how to fit such workouts into your training schedule. Next week I plan to describe how to get the most out of your campus sessions. Campusing “well”, will reduce the risk of injury, improve your performance on…



The Rise of Khan
The Khans, in reference to the character in the Jungle Book, Shere Khan.
There are many reasons this hold line is called what it is. Back in 2018 I took my first trip to Switzerland and I was fortunate enough to climb one of the best boulder…

eGrips Unifies Under the Trango Brand
The story of Trango’s hold program begins in 1996, in a windowless warehouse in North Boulder. After experiences with disappointing, fragile, and slick polyethylene climbing holds, eGrips looked to a revolutionary new material derived from…





The Trango Harness Lineup
Our selection of harnesses has something to offer for any type of climbing, and any age of climber! Here's a helpful guide to understanding each harness's best uses and standout features to make your selection easier.
All-Around Harnesses
These…

Use Video to Dial-in your Beta
The advent of inexpensive, compact digital imaging technology has been a boon to outdoor sports. Now, nearly everyone can get Galen Rowell-worthy images of their adventures in the wildest of places; and products like the Go Pro allow for first-person videos that required a professional camera crew in the past. I’m surprised and a little…


El Alma Del Salto (Part II)
During my trip in January 2022, some climbers and I were talking to Ramon and asked if he would host a dinner so we could learn a more complete composition of the origins of El Salto.

El Alma Del Salto (Part I)
El Alma Del Salto (Part I)
By Trango athlete Karly Rager
Click here to read El Alma Del Salto (Part II).
Air ribbons floss car windows on the road to La Cienéga de González. Their cool poignancy is amplified by the fact that I’ve…

Vietnam Dreaming – Skiy DeTray
By Trango Athlete Skiy DeTray
Sitting here in these COVID-19 times its best we pursue domestic adventures, but its still fun to reminisce about the wonderful freedoms we had before the world locked its borders. Able to jump on a plane and…

Eastern Offwidths: Big Bros Take on China
When you think of climbing in China, limestone sport routes probably come to mind. This spring, Irene Yee and her crew of offwidth aficionados took on some of China's lesser known terrain...offwidths. Donning a rack of Big Bros and tape gloves,…

2017 Ice Festival Schedule – Where We’ll Be
It's the time of the year when long tendrils of snowmelt begin to harden and form some of our favorite ice and mixed climbing formations. Like you, we spend our time scheming new ascents, planning trips to new areas, and optimizing our gear.…

The Big Year Part 3: Upping the Ante
Two in the afternoon, and I’m shaking uncontrollably. One second I’m freezing, the next I’m burning up. It hurts to move, to breathe, to blink my eyes! I reach for the phone, and call for life support. Uncle Stu,…

The Big Year – Part 1 (casting off)
What would you do with a full year off of work?
A few years back a friend of mine proposed that question. Hmmm. Like school kids we sat around and day dreamed. Patagonia, Pakistan, Nepal, Italy, Spain…. the list went on.…

Clinics, Comps, and Top 10 Finishes at Ouray Ice Fest
Each January, we circle the Ouray Ice Festival on our calendars. It's a yearly favorite that affords us the opportunity to climb ice, connect with the climbing community, and talk about our favorite subject: climbing gear. This year was no different…

Broken Holds, Near Sends, and Big Whippers on Straits of Gibraltar
The line between work and play are often blurred in our industry - much to our delight. During the recent Bozeman Ice Fest we were able to get away between clinics, demos, and competitions for a few mixed and ice routes in Hyalite Canyon's Bingo…



Introducing the Vergo by Trango
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCtvZ-9TehA
The Vergo is an all-new assisted braking belay device from Trango. We designed the Vergo with ergonomics in mind, meaning that the most comfortable way to use the Vergo is also the safest way. In…

The Vergo Belay Device by Trango
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QITpvF9SIGs&t=6s
The all-new Vergo belay device brings new dimensions of safety and ergonomics to belaying. Check www.trango.com/vergo for more information.

Be a Climber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BG37iQsLd0M
As climbers we can be known for building up. We can be known for supporting each other. We can be leaders because we are strong. We can be confident, because we’ve seen what we can do. We can be…

My Mom, The Climber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjYXc7lJOpM
Be a climber. It's about more than just pulling hard and pushing past your high point. Our shared passion is a vehicle to pursue what we love and to encourage others as they do the same. This ethos…

Video: How to Uncoil a New Climbing Rope
Let’s be honest – getting a new rope is glorious. After hours of internet research and nerding out on technical questions like “how many grams per meter?” and “what’s the static elongation?”, you came to decisions on diameter,…

Send Footage: Drew Ruana sends “Just Do It” (14c) at Smith Rock
In November, Tenaya athlete Drew Ruana (age 15) sent the iconic Smith Rock climb, "Just Do it" (14c). The route was America's first 5.14c and Ruana is among the youngest to make an ascent. Here's the send footage and a quick interview with Drew.
UPDATE:…


The Original Campus Board
As soon as Kate and I committed to a trip to Germany, I started looking for information on “The Campus Center”, the birthplace (and namesake) of the Campus Board. Legend has it that Wolfgang Gullich was looking for a new way to train explosive power for a new cutting-edge route he was trying in the…


Ethan Pringle Sends Chris Sharma’s “Power Animal” (V13) in Bishop
Some days just aren't your days, but some day are! Yesterday I was slipping off the upper crux of 'Power Animal' (V13) just like on my previous day of attempts, but on my third go of the day I decided to just try really really hard…


How to Build a Campus Board
Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is a unfortunate because; as described in the…


Adjustable Mount for the RPTC
Ever since I first conceived of the Rock Prodigy Training Center, I’ve been pondering a cheap and simple mounting system that would allow for instantaneous spacing adjustments. Once the RPTC was unveiled I got a number of great ideas from other climbers. Julian Marks suggested a “French Cleat” system in this Mountain Project thread, which uses…




