Close-up shot of Alex Johnson's hands crossed at the wrist while she stands on a bouldering crash pad.
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Alex Johnson’s Training Tips

By Trango athlete Alex Johnson My approach to training has changed exponentially over the years. When I was young, it was just climbing a ton at the gym, maybe some 4x4’s, sometimes coupled with some lay-on-the-floor core exercises…
Close-up view of Alex Johnson hanging on the Rock Prodigy Pivot hangboard
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Choosing your Rock Prodigy

With three unique designs, the Rock Prodigy hangboard family can meet you where you are, and help you tick off your training goals. But - how do you decide which board is best for you? There's more to it than beginner, intermediate, and advanced.…
Karly Rager Priest on Our Father, 5.10d. Photo by Nate Kenney.

Onsight Climbing – Definition, Nuances & Tips!

By Karly Rager Priest Hey there! I’m Karly – I am a Trango athlete and a Certified Personal Trainer, and I run my own coaching business, Project Direct Coaching (@projectdirect_coaching). I work with a lot of climbers, and many, many…

How to Become an Expert Climber in Five Simple Lessons (Lesson 5)

By Mark Anderson Lesson 5: Proper Practice for Climbers Part 2 If you’ve made it this far, pat yourself on the back! Few have the perseverance to suffer through my pedantic rambling for even one post, let alone 4!  If this is your first lesson you can find Lesson 1 here. In Lesson 4, we…

How to Become an Expert Climber in Five Simple Lessons (Lesson 4)

Lesson 4: Proper Practice for Climbers Part 1 By Mark Anderson Now that we understand that we all possess tremendous untapped climbing potential, just waiting to be exploited, how can climbers specifically go about unlocking that potential? Ericsson’s work in Peak not only provides tremendous inspiration, but also general frameworks for improvement that can be…

How to Become an Expert Climber in Five Simple Lessons (Lesson 3)

By Mark Anderson Lesson 3: The First Expert Climber In Lesson 2, we discussed how Anders Ericsson’s findings in Peak apply to athletics in general.  The next question is, to what extent does Ericsson’s work apply to climbing? As discussed in Lesson 2, the vast majority of Ericsson’s research concerns activities I described as “entirely…

How to Become an Expert Climber in Five Simple Lessons (Lesson 2)

By Mark Anderson Lesson 2: (Almost) Anyone Can Become an Expert Climber When we ended Lesson 1, we were pondering the main theme of Anders Ericsson’s excellent new book Peak: There are no limits*, it’s never too late to start*; You can be anything you want to be* (with the right kind of practice) Ericsson…
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How to Become an Expert Climber in Five Simple Lessons

By Mark Anderson Lesson 1: Anyone Can Be An Expert in Anything* I recently finished reading Peak: Secrets From The New Science of Expertise, by renowned researcher Anders Ericsson (and Robert Pool). Those familiar with The Rock Climber’s Training Manual (RCTM) will recognize Ericsson’s name from our chapter on Skill Development. Ericsson is well-known as…
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Better Beta: 5 Ways to Break Through

Fall is sending season. Time for breaking into that next grade, sending that nemesis rig, and time for some good old-fashioned try-hard. Sending at your limit is all about the details - the micro beta, the mental game, and every iota of body…