https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png 0 0 Mark Anderson https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png Mark Anderson2016-10-18 18:33:472016-10-18 18:33:47New Anderson Brothers Podcast
by Mark Anderson Last week Mike and I did another podcast with our friend Neely Quinn over at TrainingBeta.com. You can check out the podcast here. The interview runs about an hour and covers a wide variety of topics including: What went into designing the Rock Prodigy Forge, and why we think it’s the most advanced hangboard…
https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png 0 0 Daniel Brayack https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png Daniel Brayack2016-08-22 09:00:002016-08-22 09:14:54Coming back to Training
I basically took this spring off. Not from climbing. But from training. I was doing what most people consider training: Climbing and projecting boulder problems at the gym during the week and climbing outside and trying to send routes on the nice weekends. I basically “let myself go back to my base ability.” Of course, that’s not true..but it felt like it. We are a product of our past training. It turns out my “not-training” base is climbing 12d second or third go and onsiting 12a and b. So pretty hard to complain right? Now that I’m successfully married and honeymooned, its time to get serious with my training. I think sometimes taking a break is really good – like I am so excited to train right now, I’m bursting with it!
|Ryan Smith on Blood Raid 5.13a, New River Gorge.|
I’m a dedicated student of training – like all of us right? So what is my primary weakness? My natural strength has always been my pure enduro. I’m a big guy (for a climber) which means I have tons of gas in the tank. Unless I’m at my limit, I rarely fail on a route because of enduro or power enduro. Because of my previous hangboarding workouts, my finger strength is awesome – I can hold just about anything. I will certainly do a new hangboard workout this winter, but I’m skipping my summer hangboard workout to focus on my true weakness: Power.
If you’re not sure what your weakness is, I would first ask your friends. Training your strength is good and fun, but its not effective for breaking through barriers. There are also some online quizzes. If you’ve never done core training – I’ll tell you right now. Your weakness is your core. Especially if you don’t climb “super smooth.”
My climber bro, Ryan’s primary strength is his power, so I’ve been consulting with him and today at the gym, he’s going to take me through a series of ring exercises he’s been doing. I’ll be training on the rings for core, stabilizer muscles (super important), some pull, and I want to do flies to improve my compression strength – which flat out stinks. I’m also going to do weighted pull ups as well as train for a one-arm pull up. I would say right now my 50/50 focus will be the general pull stuff as I described above and the campus board. Once I get a good base on the pull stuff, I’ll probably move into 80/20 campus board, ring stuff. I have about ten weeks before I’m going to regularly climbing outside (its hot as crap here anyways.)
All that on top of running of course. I love running. Once I get it all sorted out, I’ll post my routines and see if I can get some input from you internet readers.
|Lauren Brayack doing some training in Cartagena, Spain|
|Me doing a little bouldering on the Rock of Gibraltar|
https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png 0 0 Mike Anderson https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png Mike Anderson2016-06-20 07:46:442016-06-20 07:46:44Insurrection!
By Mike Anderson As I said in my last article (Spring, Sprain, Summer, Send?), I’m having somewhat of a “Cinderella Season”…with things just clicking despite some minor adversity. As I bragged in that post, I sent one of my “life list” routes, Grand ‘Ol Opry (5.14c) at the Monastery. It went faster than I expected, leaving me with just…
https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png 0 0 Mike Anderson https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png Mike Anderson2016-01-20 08:08:302016-01-20 08:08:30Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet!
To really take the most advantage of the split design, you can mount the two halves in a way that allows the spacing and rotation to be adjusted on-the-fly...an "Adjustable Mount".
https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png 0 0 Mark Anderson https://blog.trango.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/logo_rev.png Mark Anderson2016-01-12 13:21:382016-01-12 13:21:38Bolt Barrage
by Mark Anderson In mid-November I learned some unfortunate news–the agency that manages my county’s open space lands had decided to begin regulating bolts on county land (among other climbing restrictions). A permit would be required to install any bolts or other fixed hardware, and development of new crags would require extensive environmental impact and…