Entries by Trango

Ten Sleep – Mid Trip

I love my life so much sometimes.  Especially so on climbing trips.  To me, these trips stretch time almost to infinite.  Its only been what…5 climbing days (and 0 rest days) so far out here and I forget that I have like a normal life, a mortgage, a real job…a lawn to cut.  I really […]

Review – Beta Stick by Trango

Trango has always been a company that brings out innovative climbing equipment.  Their best example in my opinion is the Squid, an “outside the box” stick clipping device which I LOVE.  The Cinch is another example of an “outside the box” belay device.  Being an avid boulderer, I’ve been taping tooth brushes to sticks for years, though […]

Summer Season

Its been a Hooooooot summer.  A hot and humid summer.  I’ve been climbing, but not really as much as “on” season since my trip out to Ten Sleep Canyon in Wyoming.  I climbed a few days a Coopers Rock and have been doing some gym climbing since the Energy Rock Gym in Charleston is ACed. […]

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A Pilot Mountain Legend: Lloyd Ramsey…

This is the second time in under a month that I have had to post about the loss of a North Carolina climber.  It’s definitely not getting easier, and I certainly don’t want to make this a habit.  This one really hits me hard because Lloyd Ramsey is someone whom I knew very well.  In fact, I can probably count on one hand the number of times that I’ve climbed at Pilot Mountain and haven’t ran into him.  Lloyd was a staple figure at the park, and anyone who has climbed in the area with any amount of regularity would recognize him.   Not…Read the rest of this entry →

Last Days and the Drive Back…

My last day at Ten Sleep was my best yet as far as sending hard routes.  Through the trip, I’ve been trying a couple pairs of shoes from the newly introduced to the States shoe company: Tenaya and have been quite pleased.  I figured I’d give the shoes a final exam my last day on […]

Best 12b in America?

Great White Behemoth.  Photo from Mtn Project Mercy the Huff Photo from Mountain Project I was having the discuss with Dave Pegg at Rifle about America’s best 5.12b Sport Route.  Dave had mentioned “Mercy the Huff” at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky being a contender with Rifle’s “Easy Skankin.’” I had thought about some […]


Finally, a company dedicated to selling stuff for route developing!!! Since I’ve been developing, its really been a hodge-podge here and there shopping experience looking for hardware.  I’m really glad that someone has finally filled this niche http://www.rapbolting.com/

Hitting my Stride here at Ten Sleep?

According to the guidebook (grades), I had my best day of climbing yet.  Honestly, I feel like some of the 5.11s we did the first couple days were harder, but I managed to flash an 11d/12a, a 12a and a 12b at the “Shinto” wall….Wyoming Flower Child (5.11d), Center El Shinto (5.12b), and Dope Shinto […]

Tenaya Part 2

I tried my second pair of Tenaya shoes the “Tatanka.”  I’m pretty skeptical when it comes to new shoes, so I wore them on an easy route, the classic “Great White Buffalo” 5.11b which was short.  I was really impressed with the shoes!  I sized them really TIGHT so they hurt a little bit at […]