This past weekend at the red river gorge was COLD. Not cool, but COLD. It was perfect. I wasn’t really thinking and didn’t bring pants, but rather my “man-preses”…and was cold. I bought a pair of climbing pants from Waterstone – the local climbing shop this week!!
I was really happy that my friends agreed to climb with me at both crags which I had projects.
Our first day, we climbed at Shady Grove at the PMRP. After warming up on “Which is Which” 11d, I got right on my project there: “Taste the Rainbow.” I had previously worked the route two separate days.
Taste the Rainbow 5.13a is a super-long adventure route that climbs a full ?100 feet with varied climbing. The opening four bolts is quite hard – slopery and bouldery moves on a generously steep face which eases into a full “lay-down” rest. From the rest, the next 3 bolts in easy 5.11 climbing on the vertical face. The moves are fairly straight forward and there are some small holds, but its pretty easy going. This leads the climber to another full rest “standing on a really good almost-ledge.” From here, the route tackles an incredibly steep wall with good holds separated by so-so slopers and pinches. Some tricky footwork (heel hooks) leads to the crux – a bad sloper/pinch move to a set of flattish slopers and a knee-bar rest (MAKE SURE YOU BRING A KNEE PAD FOR THE RIGHT). I actually flashed the route to this point but didn’t know about the knee-bar my first go. The next boulder problem (only one more bolt from the top) is considered the crux, but the actual movement is fairly easy though the culmination of pump and longer moves is the red-point crux.
The last boulder problem involves a couple long moves and stab out right to a good jug hold. The hardest part of this section is that the holds are confusing. What looks like a hold is a date with disappointment and the “good hold” hides!! Most skip the last bolt to save energy, but with a key high right heel-hook/foot in the hole, the last section is fairly easy.
I was really happy to send this route. I had maybe ?8 or 10 goes into the route over 3 days. When I did it, I felt great on it and the colder weather definitely made all the holds feel like jugs! Especially the slopers!!