|Wes Climbing a 5.12 in Boulder Canyon|
10. The Gate Keepr 5.12a, Wizards Gate — The Crags, RMNP
My most exciting lead to date, The Wasp, occurred Wednesday. Tuesday, I hiked out with Bronson to top rope and suss out some gear. Previously, I had one top-rope lap on The Wasp this summer in late June. I also have had some miserable burns on it a few summers back. This June was the first time I top-roped it with no falls and no extreme pump. I had to work at noon, so although I felt strong and was tempted for a lead go, I didn’t have time.
Wednesday, my girlfriend Kelly Cramer, returned with me. Through a small debate on the hike up, WE decided that there would be no more top-roping. I would walk up to the climb and lead the darn thing. I fell entering the crux traverse. BOO. I was fully pumped.
I rested for a while, then tried again. Feeling solid I reached the “jug” at the end of the traverse left, but had placed a piece in the way. I shuffled around trying to jam my hand under the cam, but in my flurry ended up just grabbing it. Double BOO. I definitely hollered a few F-Bombs. Irritated at my lack of mental control!!!!
I was also worried I wouldn’t have the energy for another full effort. I rested 20 minutes or so, then headed up for the 3rd time. Through the traverse, I placed the cam in a better location, moved through, and stood up for a rest. One more reachy move puts you on a “smile-evoking-foot-holds-surprise-hand-rail-of-joy”traverse right. I placed another piece but was short a runner. I clipped it directly and began climbing upwards towards the piton.
|The Wasp, Photo taken from Mountain Project|
WHEN DID THE SMALL CHILD JUMP ON MY BACK, I thought? I just sand-bagged myself with an extreme lightening zag of rope drag. I thought about down-climbing and taking the piece out but thought I would waste to much energy. In hindsight, I wasted just as much energy climbing upwards with the rope drag, Elvis clipping and such. Even with the little extra epic I created for myself, I clipped the piton, moved through the last few crimps to the jug at the lip with just enough energy! YAHOO!!!!!!!!!
|Heel hooking in the Ra’s in Boulder Canyon!|
Thanks Kelly and Bronson for hiking out there with me!
Recently, Trango has picked up Tenaya shoes, and have been testing a few. I have always been partial to climbing with Muira’s, but am finding Tenaya’s Ra to be quite comparable. Great rubber, stiff and comfortable. The Masai’s are a less aggressive shoe that I am climbing in a size bigger than usual, but am loving them for long days. They still have a great toe box and edge, but more flexibility.
Give these shoes a try!!!