climber

Rocktown!!

Its been almost a full year since I’ve been to Rocktown.  Mostly because  I blew my A-2 pulley on the problem Helicopter (V6) right in the middle of the season and by the time I was healed, it was out of season!

It was nice to go there and just climb, instead of being worried about my guidebook checklist.  Of course, I always take lots of photos on trips; this comes second nature to me and for the most part, does not infere with my climbing.

A little over a year ago, a gym opened here in charleston, the Energy Rock Gym http://www.energyrockgym.com/ which has been one of the single best things that has happened in my life here in charleston.  I’ve definitely lost a lot of weight and gotten significantly stronger, which is nice!  We have a really awesome crew of boulders now and 3 of them joined me for our trip:  David Statler (who owns the gym), Matt Jones and Dustin Canterbury.  We met up with our now BFF Jenny Siegrist who lives in Chattanooga.

Our first day, we started at the back and worked our way forward, warming up at the Hueco Simulator area and doing the classics there, including all the Mario Variants (V3-4), Belly Button V3, Making Waves V1, and Ripple V2. Then we hit the comet boulder and worked a few of those problems, including the 4-star classic, Comet Arete V1 and Standard Variation V5.  I didn’t get to do “Standard Variation” because I hit my knee pretty bad on the start of it.  ‘DOH!

Next, we spent time on both the Idiot Roof V6 and Helicopter V6, before heading over to the dugout, where we tried Splashback V6 and Tunnel Vision V6.  By then, I was pretty beat up and my shoulder hurt (I’ve been having a little trouble in my right shoulder for a few months now.)  We finished the day at the Scoop area, climbing all the Scoop variations; I had never been on the Anti Scoop before (V4) and LOVED it!!  What a good problem, though it is not as impressive as the Scoop feature.

My second day was tragic.  I totally left my shoes back at Jenny’s house and was FORCED to climb in Mad Rock shoes :(.  It was horrible.  And I saved all the techy slab projects for day 2.  (These being Campus Punks V5 and Blue V6.)  I did make considerable progress on another of my projects, Little Bad Boulder V5, though I feel like I need to gain some specific sloper power before sending this (or get a real pair of shoes on my feet darnit!)

We spent some time warming up at the Campus Punks area, where I did the classic Slabs there (V0s) and two problems in the Wedge corridor.  I did “Paint Can” V2 in my 5-toe shoes, then we hit up the bads, where I failed to send “Little Bad Boulder” though both David and Dustin did.

Next we spent considerable time at “Blue” where, once again, having butterball shoes made the problem almost impossible for me!! ugh!!  I’ll get back to that thing for sure.

We finished up the day climbing at the Crock Block Area.  I was pretty spent myself, and we were definitely working the thing in the dark, so no sends…..I’ve already done the problem (Center Crock Block V5) so I wasn’t really trying that hard!

Jenny Siegrist – Inspired by an Idiot V6.

David Statler – Soap on a Rope – V4.

David Statler – Soap on a Rope – V4

David Statler – Pocket Rocket – V4

Dustin Canterbury – Pocket Rocket – V4

Matt Jones – Pocket Rocket – V4

Dustin Canterbury – Paint Can – V2

David Statler – Blue – V6

Dustin Canterbury – Blue – V6

Matt Jones – Police Brutality – V5

Don’t ask….

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