Day 3

Day 3 at Smith Rock was a good one. I feel like I’m starting to get the feel of things – sending Cool Ranch or something like that (5.11a) which felt easy and sending “Blue Light Special” (5.11b) second go (first go was onsite and the beta was totally jacked, but once I got the beta, it was easy.)

I did a burn up “Liquid Jade” (5.12b). It confirmed my suspicion that 5.12 at smith is easier than 5.11…It was hard of course and I didn’t do it, but still…

Day 4 was today and we took a rest day. We decided to go for a big long hike – which ended up going up one side of the mountain, over the other. It was rough dude! I’m hoping to have a good climbing day tomorrow, maybe try “Latest Rage” – which is a life goal of mine. We shall see.

My initial evaluation of Smith Rock is “Come back to this place for 2+ weeks next time.) Its awesome. The towns are nice, the camping is good (though the showers are luke-warm at best.)

Smith Rock

Smith Rock is totally rad. I’m getting my butt kicked here. But the climbing is totally rad! The hike is sort of rough. You have to walk up this steep hill at the end of the day, but other than the hill at the end, the hike is flat and easy.

We started out by climbing some of the “easier” moderates – mostly routes on the “Morning Glory” wall. We did “9 Gallon Buckets” 5.10c, and then I tried “Cool Ranch Flavor” 5.11a twice and could not do it (though I did it both times off the hang.) I did “Light on the Path” 5.10a as well.

I did a beta burn on “Chain Reaction” 5.12c and realized that I would not be able to do that one and that was the end of our first day.

Day 2 was not a bad day. The weather was varied “again,” but it was mostly good weather, though we did have to wait for about 20 minutes for a rain storm. I did a handful of moderates, once again, on the Morning Glory Wall including: “The Outsiders” 5.9, “Five Gallon Buckets” 5.8, and “Morning Sky” 5.10c. I tried but failed miserably to onsite “Zebra Seam” 5.11d. I fell at the third bolt (first crux), but managed to do all the rest of the moves off the hang first try (I bolt-to-bolted it.) I couldn’t imagine doing that thing on gear!

And that was pretty much day 2. Today is suppose to be the nicest of the days so far – 50 and sunny. We woke up to snow on the tent and on the ground, went into Redmond for breakfast and are now chilling at “Redpoint” Climbers Supply which is totally awesome.

L.R.C aka Stone Fort

We headed down to Chattanooga this weekend, for a PERRRFECT bouldering weekend!!

Both days, we spent at LRC, though the first day for me was the only productive day of bouldering for me – I did manage to beat the snot out of myself however. The dieting and running have paid off for me – with some good beta, I managed to send “The Wave” (V6) – and when I did it, it actually felt quite easy. I almost blew the top-out, but groveled my way through it.

I did a handful of other problems, mostly repeats, including Mystery Groove (which felt easier than ever), Tri-star and Dragon Lady (all three V4.) I repeated “The Big Much” (V4) which is more like a V2 or V3. Also, I managed to send a project of mine from the last trip – Mother Thrutch (V4), and almost did the Sit-start at V5 – I’m going to try to send this next trip.

I managed to second try the V6 finish to Super Mario, but could not do the V4 crux…this will be a project that I’d like to try fresh next trip – I think that I can do it – assuming that I CAN do the V4 section!! (The extension is about V2 or V3 with the pump from the normal start… – sort of like a route which is a strength for me.)

I put several burn in on “A Face in the Crowd” (V7) which didn’t go as well for me, though I may consider projecting that one as well.

Climb Gym

Since there was snow on the ground in the deep south, I headed North for a 3 day gym trip including Pittsburgh (Climb North) and Columbus (both gyms there.)

Ohio Gyms…

Last weekend, there being snow at rocktown, I decided to drive up to Cleveland to hit the rock gym there. Its about the 2nd or 3rd closes gym to me here in WV – though we’re getting a gym here in Charleston VERY soon!!!

When I was in High School – probably the mid to late 90s, I did one trip to the Cleveland Rock Gym (CRG) – it was a cool gym, good training walls for bouldering, LOADS of top rope climbing (that doesn’t interest me in the least.)

It was pretty much the same rad gym as I remembered it! The place was big enough that all the screaming kids didn’t really make a difference (they were mostly in the top roping range while a few brave kids came to play on the big kids wall and were pretty cool.) The problems were quite good, powerful, but varied. Open jigs was nice, which allowed for different styles/approaches to problems (I could just beast my way through some of them mrow!) – They run a good show there. The only weird thing is that they require one to belay with an ATC (after paying my $2, I passed an ATC – using one for the first time..since well…the mid 90s!) All and all, its a very worth gym which I think, was worth the four hour drive for me (assuming that rocktown and HP40 were under snow.)
Sunday, we did Kinetic Gym in Columbus. Kinetic is much smaller, but has that “hometown” feeling. At Kinetic, you’re climbing WITH everyone, instead of around them. It has a nice community feel to it. The walls at Kinetic are STEEEEEEP! And what Kinetic really has going for it is all the awesome jugs and holds that are NEW and/or well maintained. Problems are thought out, but powerful (which lends itself to my style of climbing.) The “Mothership”, their (in my opinion) premier wall is ?72 degrees, which is about the same as the madness cave at the red (?I think?). Totally an excellent gym!
Note this photo was from a trip about a ?month ago, not this weekend.

Daily Life, Running, Eating

My Aunt and Uncle got me a George Foreman grill for christmas, so I’ve been using it every day for lunch, which is a chicken breast (comes frozen) – they’re actually quite good, filling and very healthy! I was surprised at how easy it was for me to eat better and healthier with just a single meal (I don’t get hungry etc afterwards.)

I started at target of 2200 cal a month, then dropped it to 1800, then to 1400. As I slowly tapered it, I was hoping to hit my “break point” and think that I hit it at 1200 calories on my attempted 10k run yesterday. I just crashed big time at the 8k mark. I knew it was coming ,so I looped back after 4k so I could make it to my car without walking.
I DID run a half marathon last Thursday. I saw on Wiki that people tend to train for 3 months for that. Well….I sorta off the couched it. Ran a three days doing progressive runs (and some multi-run days) – then just did it! I’m hoping to work my way up to a Marathon, maybe in march…we’ll see…

Been a while…

Its been a while since Ive been blogging. I don’t know why – maybe I’m just lazy or maybe I’m so burried in my training and work? No its probably that I just fear that I’ve fallen into another of life’s “traps” – you know the whole steady job, working thing? Its really a great deal I have with my job though – working 4 – 10 hour days which gives me a 3 day weekend every weekend!

I’ve been running my butt off the past couple of weeks and also, have been food planning/keeping track of all my food. My problem has always been my weight. I’ve NEVER been skinny in my life, but, being able to scrap my way up easy to mid 5.12 has always been “good enough” for me. Well…I think that’s not good enough for me any more. Mainly, because I’m running out of routes (good ones) at the easy 5.12 range to do, but more so since I’m getting older here (I’m turning 29 this year.) – I figured I may as well beat the snot out of myself, lose some weight and be a better climber.
I think that, from all the years of being heavy (though muscular) – I probably have pretty strong tendons. If I can go to be a “skinny” guy – I bet that I can crush some small holds! I know that I will likely lose enduro, which has always been my biggest strength…we’ll see.
I HAVE NOT been weighing myself, because I don’t want to know – honestly, but I have definitely been noticing some serious gains (well loses) looking in the mirror. Like OH WOW I’m getting skinny! My love handles are going the way of the beaver.
I’ve been traveling a good bit, though unfortunately, to climbing gyms since the weather has been pretty bad this season – even in Chatt, though I’ve made several Rocktown trips, a LRC trip, a day of climbing at the Obed….
I’ll post my run and diet logs. I’ve been using THIS program – which is quite excellent for tracking one’s caloric intake.
its free.

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