Look close at these beer cans and you’ll see the corners are polished and some of the labeling has rubbed off from rolling around on pitons and carabiners since, likely, the summer of 2009. What I’m trying to say is that I can be very bad about cleaning out my car. Here’s to a little bit of pre-spring cleaning.
When I hang out with Austin Siadak I sometimes wonder if this is what Walter Sobchak would be like if he moved into a minivan and rock climbed instead of going to Vietnam. Eitherway, ‘Dak did move into a van and began documenting the climbing life. I caught up with him sometime after he pitched his Nikon D700 off a cliff (the sensor was fine, but the mic got worked) and asked him some questions about the nascent life of a Professional Dirtbagrapher.
Austin Siadak “sleeping it off” en route to a day of sport climbing.
How do you take your coffee? Dark as night and twice before I can get anything done for the day.
[READ MORE BELOW THE BREAK]
Chuck, fuck, and marry: Condoleezza Rice, Hilary Clinton, Madeline Albright? Chuck Condi, fuck Clinton, and marry Albright. Little known fact: Rice studied under Albright’s father at the University of Denver. Did I mention I used to be an International Relations nerd?
.:HBs:. Thanks for reading
Best climbing video ever?
I did a burn up “Liquid Jade” (5.12b). It confirmed my suspicion that 5.12 at smith is easier than 5.11…It was hard of course and I didn’t do it, but still…
Day 4 was today and we took a rest day. We decided to go for a big long hike – which ended up going up one side of the mountain, over the other. It was rough dude! I’m hoping to have a good climbing day tomorrow, maybe try “Latest Rage” – which is a life goal of mine. We shall see.
Smith Rock is totally rad. I’m getting my butt kicked here. But the climbing is totally rad! The hike is sort of rough. You have to walk up this steep hill at the end of the day, but other than the hill at the end, the hike is flat and easy.
I did a beta burn on “Chain Reaction” 5.12c and realized that I would not be able to do that one and that was the end of our first day.
And that was pretty much day 2. Today is suppose to be the nicest of the days so far – 50 and sunny. We woke up to snow on the tent and on the ground, went into Redmond for breakfast and are now chilling at “Redpoint” Climbers Supply which is totally awesome.
Both days, we spent at LRC, though the first day for me was the only productive day of bouldering for me – I did manage to beat the snot out of myself however. The dieting and running have paid off for me – with some good beta, I managed to send “The Wave” (V6) – and when I did it, it actually felt quite easy. I almost blew the top-out, but groveled my way through it.
I did a handful of other problems, mostly repeats, including Mystery Groove (which felt easier than ever), Tri-star and Dragon Lady (all three V4.) I repeated “The Big Much” (V4) which is more like a V2 or V3. Also, I managed to send a project of mine from the last trip – Mother Thrutch (V4), and almost did the Sit-start at V5 – I’m going to try to send this next trip.
I managed to second try the V6 finish to Super Mario, but could not do the V4 crux…this will be a project that I’d like to try fresh next trip – I think that I can do it – assuming that I CAN do the V4 section!! (The extension is about V2 or V3 with the pump from the normal start… – sort of like a route which is a strength for me.)
I put several burn in on “A Face in the Crowd” (V7) which didn’t go as well for me, though I may consider projecting that one as well.