My Aunt and Uncle got me a George Foreman grill for christmas, so I’ve been using it every day for lunch, which is a chicken breast (comes frozen) – they’re actually quite good, filling and very healthy! I was surprised at how easy it was for me to eat better and healthier with just a single meal (I don’t get hungry etc afterwards.)
Its been a while since Ive been blogging. I don’t know why – maybe I’m just lazy or maybe I’m so burried in my training and work? No its probably that I just fear that I’ve fallen into another of life’s “traps” – you know the whole steady job, working thing? Its really a great deal I have with my job though – working 4 – 10 hour days which gives me a 3 day weekend every weekend!
Our very own Malcolm Daly recently sat down with NPR radio and discussed this year’s Adventure Film Festival, currently running in Boulder. To read more and listen to the interview, click on the link below…
The past few days at BIshop have been pretty good – though i’m kinda getting my butt kicked – and sorta not. I’m repeating just about everything I did last time pretty fast – did “Bowling Pin” at V4 third go. and aparently, the only guidebook said the sit-start was part of the V4 for bowling pin, which I did , but the new guidebook says that holds have broken (though not since I’ve done it) and its a V6…so I did Bowling Pin (V6) last time – making it my first V6 at Bishop…thought it felt hard for a V4! I found really good beta yesterday, too, for the upper crux on Bowling Pin. I love using holds that have no chalk on them and making it easier for myself. It makes me feel like all those years of climbing and bouldering have paid off in experience.
I did Birthday Skyline (V3) which was a new one for me, and repeated Birthday Direct first go (which took me a bunch of goes last time.) – I also did the Hero Roof (V0) which was a total classic!
I got seriously shut down on the Buttermilk Stem (V2)…its just a really physical move that I cannot do (well maybe I’ll be able to do it next time – its totally not-a-climber move to get up into it…) Ryan, being not-a-climber did it fairly quickly (just kidding, it took him a few goes.)
I did a couple burns on High Plains Drifter (V7), but got shut down pretty hard.
We did the Happys two days ago – I managed to do Solarium first try (I love that one) but still got shut down on Serengeti. Darnit! I put three burns into “Cue Ball” (V4) as well – a problem I had meant to try my last trip but didn’t; that one is at the top of my list now. I like the problem; its hard for me, has long moves between mostly good holds, but with intricate heel-hooks…the crux is a long move off a bad right hand sloper (good feet) to some intermediates, then a jug. I did the move from the stand-start….just a power move off slopers (yummy)
We had a really good excuse for flailing today – it was day 3 in a row on. Well…we did sort of take it easy the past two days – but well…that’s a good excuse right? Ryan and Hiked up to the Happys this morning. Ryan was —— this close to flashing solarium, but he got it second go casually. We did “Heavenly Path” – a really scary, but good high ball V1.
We screwed around with and both sent this cool V4 arête, to the right of the Hulk. We both meant to put some project burns in on the Hulk – but were both feeling pretty tanked after a combined Roid Rage on Serengeti. We were both extremely close to sending like 30 times…but so close…so far.
When we got to the parking lot, my brakes finally gave out. I had purchased a set of wrenches, however, the critical tool that I needed – a C-clamp was not to be found. We asked nicely and so other boulderers drove into town and bought us one and we got it done in like five minutes!
We meeting Nancy tomorrow early at the Buttermilks where she is hoping to send her V8 project. Man – that girl got strong!
Cool article about Ty Foose in the latest Urban Climber magazine. Ty was a driving force behind the creation of e-grips. Check out e-grips.com to read more about Ty’s pioneering efforts in the world of climbing holds!
I have about a week before I leave on my trip – about 18 or 19 days away from home. The major destination is Bishop, CA, but with stops at Indian Creek, Rifle, and in Boulder (Clear Creek Canyon?)