Our very own Malcolm Daly recently sat down with NPR radio and discussed this year’s Adventure Film Festival, currently running in Boulder. To read more and listen to the interview, click on the link below…
The past few days at BIshop have been pretty good – though i’m kinda getting my butt kicked – and sorta not. I’m repeating just about everything I did last time pretty fast – did “Bowling Pin” at V4 third go. and aparently, the only guidebook said the sit-start was part of the V4 for bowling pin, which I did , but the new guidebook says that holds have broken (though not since I’ve done it) and its a V6…so I did Bowling Pin (V6) last time – making it my first V6 at Bishop…thought it felt hard for a V4! I found really good beta yesterday, too, for the upper crux on Bowling Pin. I love using holds that have no chalk on them and making it easier for myself. It makes me feel like all those years of climbing and bouldering have paid off in experience.
I did Birthday Skyline (V3) which was a new one for me, and repeated Birthday Direct first go (which took me a bunch of goes last time.) – I also did the Hero Roof (V0) which was a total classic!
I got seriously shut down on the Buttermilk Stem (V2)…its just a really physical move that I cannot do (well maybe I’ll be able to do it next time – its totally not-a-climber move to get up into it…) Ryan, being not-a-climber did it fairly quickly (just kidding, it took him a few goes.)
I did a couple burns on High Plains Drifter (V7), but got shut down pretty hard.
We did the Happys two days ago – I managed to do Solarium first try (I love that one) but still got shut down on Serengeti. Darnit! I put three burns into “Cue Ball” (V4) as well – a problem I had meant to try my last trip but didn’t; that one is at the top of my list now. I like the problem; its hard for me, has long moves between mostly good holds, but with intricate heel-hooks…the crux is a long move off a bad right hand sloper (good feet) to some intermediates, then a jug. I did the move from the stand-start….just a power move off slopers (yummy)
We had a really good excuse for flailing today – it was day 3 in a row on. Well…we did sort of take it easy the past two days – but well…that’s a good excuse right? Ryan and Hiked up to the Happys this morning. Ryan was —— this close to flashing solarium, but he got it second go casually. We did “Heavenly Path” – a really scary, but good high ball V1.
We screwed around with and both sent this cool V4 arête, to the right of the Hulk. We both meant to put some project burns in on the Hulk – but were both feeling pretty tanked after a combined Roid Rage on Serengeti. We were both extremely close to sending like 30 times…but so close…so far.
When we got to the parking lot, my brakes finally gave out. I had purchased a set of wrenches, however, the critical tool that I needed – a C-clamp was not to be found. We asked nicely and so other boulderers drove into town and bought us one and we got it done in like five minutes!
We meeting Nancy tomorrow early at the Buttermilks where she is hoping to send her V8 project. Man – that girl got strong!
Cool article about Ty Foose in the latest Urban Climber magazine. Ty was a driving force behind the creation of e-grips. Check out e-grips.com to read more about Ty’s pioneering efforts in the world of climbing holds!
I have about a week before I leave on my trip – about 18 or 19 days away from home. The major destination is Bishop, CA, but with stops at Indian Creek, Rifle, and in Boulder (Clear Creek Canyon?)
This fall – I’ve slowed down – drill maybe about 20 some routes…but this post isn’t about the New. I had a pretty rough (in a good way) weekend – lots of driving – and climbing – and hiking – HIKING – I hate hiking…truly. Friday, I did Grayson Highlands State Park – where I met some rad locals – did a bunch of boulder problems – that place is cool – check it out! Saturday – I climbed at the new at Summersville lake – and unfortunately, I took a really ugly lead fall and I think fractured or badly bruised my heel.
Its been a while since I’ve posted – I’ve been keeping on the DL the route development which we have been doing at the Meadow – mainly because a lot of my projects got snaked at the “Feed Lot” which we developed this Spring.
I promised Matt, though, that Sunday, I would check out this “new” crag with him – from Google Earth, we could see this 200? foot tall limestone pillar. It is near Seneca Rocks, but the unfortunately fact is that its OUT IN THE MIDDLE of no-where….so (on my fractured heel), we hiked about 8 miles (lots of up-hill and stream crossings) to check out this pillar…the most obviously appealing line was the front face of this giant pillar.
Finally, when we reach the front face (there was some spectacular trundling involved!), we drilled an anchor and rapped the face. I got about 5 bolts into it when the driving rain and dead batteries ended the day (we had more batteries at the base, but screw it right!) – well, we left the rope hanging – the route is going to be about 160 or 170 feet with intermediate rap stations.
This fall – I’ve slowed down – drill maybe about 20 some routes…but this post isn’t about the New.
I had a pretty rough (in a good way) weekend – lots of driving – and climbing – and hiking – HIKING – I hate hiking…truly.
Friday, I did Grayson Highlands State Park – where I met some rad locals – did a bunch of boulder problems – that place is cool – check it out!
Saturday – I climbed at the new at Summersville lake – and unfortunately, I took a really ugly lead fall and I think fractured or badly bruised my heel.
So I officially started my P90x workout Sunday evening – I climbed Sunday, but not really enough – so I did Arms and Chest…I’m glad that I pregamed last week – I didn’t TOTALLY suck with that workout.
The plyometrics workout was the one that I was the most worried about (last night) – but It went MUCH better than it did the previous week as well – I was pretty excited that I only had to pause it once (or maybe twice I don’t remember) – The abs workout wasn’t so bad either – I had to pause it a few times and I couldn’t do all the workouts to the max reps, but it went much better than the previous day.
As with the energy it takes to workout and lose weight, I’ve greatly improved my dietary efforts as well. I had 3 eggs for breakfast this morning, and a slice of Pies and Pints Pizza. I bought a bunch of fruit at the store for lunch (and probably finish off the Pies and Pints Pizza) – Dinner will be a salad at Panera.
Tonight’s P90x is going to be Shoulders and Arms.
So – Those of you that know me – know this – but its funny because I’m a pretty crappy climber for one who does it with his life…I’ve sent one V7 – and it was a while ago – and have only RPed a handful of 12ds….I’m really hoping that this workout will push me into being more solid on 12+ and maybe – just maybe I’ll send my first 5.13a this fall? I sure hope so.
I’m planning a two week trip the first two weeks of November – I’m thinking about driving out to Bishop, with a stop at Joe’s Valley on the way there and back (its like an hour and a bit out of the way!)
My P90x workout will take me to about two weeks before that. Also, I’m getting a hangboard in the mail here soon and am hoping to add a weekly hangboard workout to my P90x routine.
so yeah – life is hard (not) – I’ve been going to sleep at 830 – so I can wake up at 530 – to go to work – then I come home, train and then sleep….(I only work four days a week though.)
I’ll keep updating on my P90x and if/how its improving my climbing.