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Climb Gym




Since there was snow on the ground in the deep south, I headed North for a 3 day gym trip including Pittsburgh (Climb North) and Columbus (both gyms there.)

Ohio Gyms…



Last weekend, there being snow at rocktown, I decided to drive up to Cleveland to hit the rock gym there. Its about the 2nd or 3rd closes gym to me here in WV – though we’re getting a gym here in Charleston VERY soon!!!

When I was in High School – probably the mid to late 90s, I did one trip to the Cleveland Rock Gym (CRG) – it was a cool gym, good training walls for bouldering, LOADS of top rope climbing (that doesn’t interest me in the least.)



It was pretty much the same rad gym as I remembered it! The place was big enough that all the screaming kids didn’t really make a difference (they were mostly in the top roping range while a few brave kids came to play on the big kids wall and were pretty cool.) The problems were quite good, powerful, but varied. Open jigs was nice, which allowed for different styles/approaches to problems (I could just beast my way through some of them mrow!) – They run a good show there. The only weird thing is that they require one to belay with an ATC (after paying my $2, I passed an ATC – using one for the first time..since well…the mid 90s!) All and all, its a very worth gym which I think, was worth the four hour drive for me (assuming that rocktown and HP40 were under snow.)
Sunday, we did Kinetic Gym in Columbus. Kinetic is much smaller, but has that “hometown” feeling. At Kinetic, you’re climbing WITH everyone, instead of around them. It has a nice community feel to it. The walls at Kinetic are STEEEEEEP! And what Kinetic really has going for it is all the awesome jugs and holds that are NEW and/or well maintained. Problems are thought out, but powerful (which lends itself to my style of climbing.) The “Mothership”, their (in my opinion) premier wall is ?72 degrees, which is about the same as the madness cave at the red (?I think?). Totally an excellent gym!
Note this photo was from a trip about a ?month ago, not this weekend.

Daily Life, Running, Eating

My Aunt and Uncle got me a George Foreman grill for christmas, so I’ve been using it every day for lunch, which is a chicken breast (comes frozen) – they’re actually quite good, filling and very healthy! I was surprised at how easy it was for me to eat better and healthier with just a single meal (I don’t get hungry etc afterwards.)

I started at target of 2200 cal a month, then dropped it to 1800, then to 1400. As I slowly tapered it, I was hoping to hit my “break point” and think that I hit it at 1200 calories on my attempted 10k run yesterday. I just crashed big time at the 8k mark. I knew it was coming ,so I looped back after 4k so I could make it to my car without walking.
I DID run a half marathon last Thursday. I saw on Wiki that people tend to train for 3 months for that. Well….I sorta off the couched it. Ran a three days doing progressive runs (and some multi-run days) – then just did it! I’m hoping to work my way up to a Marathon, maybe in march…we’ll see…

Been a while…

Its been a while since Ive been blogging. I don’t know why – maybe I’m just lazy or maybe I’m so burried in my training and work? No its probably that I just fear that I’ve fallen into another of life’s “traps” – you know the whole steady job, working thing? Its really a great deal I have with my job though – working 4 – 10 hour days which gives me a 3 day weekend every weekend!

I’ve been running my butt off the past couple of weeks and also, have been food planning/keeping track of all my food. My problem has always been my weight. I’ve NEVER been skinny in my life, but, being able to scrap my way up easy to mid 5.12 has always been “good enough” for me. Well…I think that’s not good enough for me any more. Mainly, because I’m running out of routes (good ones) at the easy 5.12 range to do, but more so since I’m getting older here (I’m turning 29 this year.) – I figured I may as well beat the snot out of myself, lose some weight and be a better climber.
I think that, from all the years of being heavy (though muscular) – I probably have pretty strong tendons. If I can go to be a “skinny” guy – I bet that I can crush some small holds! I know that I will likely lose enduro, which has always been my biggest strength…we’ll see.
I HAVE NOT been weighing myself, because I don’t want to know – honestly, but I have definitely been noticing some serious gains (well loses) looking in the mirror. Like OH WOW I’m getting skinny! My love handles are going the way of the beaver.
I’ve been traveling a good bit, though unfortunately, to climbing gyms since the weather has been pretty bad this season – even in Chatt, though I’ve made several Rocktown trips, a LRC trip, a day of climbing at the Obed….
I’ll post my run and diet logs. I’ve been using THIS program – which is quite excellent for tracking one’s caloric intake. http://spaz.ca/cronometer/
its free.

A few days at Bishop



The past few days at BIshop have been pretty good – though i’m kinda getting my butt kicked – and sorta not. I’m repeating just about everything I did last time pretty fast – did “Bowling Pin” at V4 third go. and aparently, the only guidebook said the sit-start was part of the V4 for bowling pin, which I did , but the new guidebook says that holds have broken (though not since I’ve done it) and its a V6…so I did Bowling Pin (V6) last time – making it my first V6 at Bishop…thought it felt hard for a V4! I found really good beta yesterday, too, for the upper crux on Bowling Pin. I love using holds that have no chalk on them and making it easier for myself. It makes me feel like all those years of climbing and bouldering have paid off in experience.

I did Birthday Skyline (V3) which was a new one for me, and repeated Birthday Direct first go (which took me a bunch of goes last time.) – I also did the Hero Roof (V0) which was a total classic!

I got seriously shut down on the Buttermilk Stem (V2)…its just a really physical move that I cannot do (well maybe I’ll be able to do it next time – its totally not-a-climber move to get up into it…) Ryan, being not-a-climber did it fairly quickly (just kidding, it took him a few goes.)

I did a couple burns on High Plains Drifter (V7), but got shut down pretty hard.




We did the Happys two days ago – I managed to do Solarium first try (I love that one) but still got shut down on Serengeti. Darnit! I put three burns into “Cue Ball” (V4) as well – a problem I had meant to try my last trip but didn’t; that one is at the top of my list now. I like the problem; its hard for me, has long moves between mostly good holds, but with intricate heel-hooks…the crux is a long move off a bad right hand sloper (good feet) to some intermediates, then a jug. I did the move from the stand-start….just a power move off slopers (yummy)


Last night, we frequented the neighboring campsite where the Canadian and Australian girls cooked us a meal fresh from the dumpster at Vons (I’m not kidding)

Today is ANOTHER rest day…that will make two on the trip so far….rest days are so freaking boring.

Day 3…Bishop…

Day 3:
We had a really good excuse for flailing today – it was day 3 in a row on. Well…we did sort of take it easy the past two days – but well…that’s a good excuse right? Ryan and Hiked up to the Happys this morning. Ryan was —— this close to flashing solarium, but he got it second go casually. We did “Heavenly Path” – a really scary, but good high ball V1.

We screwed around with and both sent this cool V4 arête, to the right of the Hulk. We both meant to put some project burns in on the Hulk – but were both feeling pretty tanked after a combined Roid Rage on Serengeti. We were both extremely close to sending like 30 times…but so close…so far.

When we got to the parking lot, my brakes finally gave out. I had purchased a set of wrenches, however, the critical tool that I needed – a C-clamp was not to be found. We asked nicely and so other boulderers drove into town and bought us one and we got it done in like five minutes!

We meeting Nancy tomorrow early at the Buttermilks where she is hoping to send her V8 project. Man – that girl got strong!

Day 1 and 2 of my Bishop Trip



Day 1:

After closing on my house, (9am – 9:50am,) I picked up Ryan and we hit the road. We drove for 25.5 hours, from Charleston WV, to Rifle, Colorado. (1540 miles) – It was pretty rough – and let me tell you – Kansas is the WORST state to drive across…the only thing worse is the first half of Colorado which is just as bad.
So one major bummer – I left my entire toiletry bag at home. Thankfully, I stashed some extra contacts and bought the rest…
Today we climbed at Rifle. W were literally FOJJ….step out of the car and fall of “Feline” (11a). I managed to do the route second try, but I finally understand what the “Rifle” thing is…you spend so much time trying to figure out all the moves that you pump out on the crux which is the last move….well at least that’s what happened 3 goes on this 11c “GET NAME” – I was really close on it though…seriously. really close.
“All the rock in Denver is choss” – James Glover.
My verdict on Rifle. This place is rad and I want to come back for sure – spending maybe a week or two next summer here. The climbing and movement is quite unique; the holds, yes are polished, but the feet stick better than I thought they would…the crag to car to crag is amazingly short.
After a short lay-over-night in Rifle, Ryan and I are heading to Indian Creek.
I’m having a little bit of brake trouble…well a lot – the front left brake makes this nasty grinding sound every time I drive less than 40mph…
Day 2:
After Rifle, we were planning on going to the creek, but ended up just pushing it to Bishop! I’m definitely getting a little irritable at Ryan’s expense, but I’m trying really hard to think about how bad my brake grinding is getting. I need to get those brakes changed today or tomorrow – or soon. My Rotor is getting pretty grooved…
Ryan was a freaking trooper last night – he did MOST of the 10 hour drive from Joe’s Valley to Bishop…while I lay in the passenger seat in a somewhat half conscious stupor (listening to an Audio book – Ender’s Game) – I missed several big parts, so I’m pretty sure that I passed out.
Joe’s Valley was rad and definitely gets a check mark for “Come back to visit this place”
We went to “Area 51” at New Joe’s; we were taking it easy –
We did a handful of easy problems – though some of them weren’t that easy! The climbing felt similar to Red Rocks a little bit – no where near the type of Sandstone climbing we get in the East – which is MUCH grittier. It was, in-fact, closer to limestone than to the sandstone that I’m used to.
We ended up getting chased out by a nasty rain storm. I was working this V6 Dyno problem – coming CLOSE to the hold, but maybe an inch below it. It was cool for me because it was such a long move – that I really had to focus my brain into pushing and pulling as hard as I could at the exact right time…I watched a couple other guys do it; They were hitting it, but coming off…So I don’t think I was really close to sticking it…definitely a fun one though!
We ran into a group and shot some photos of them – it was great watching some peeps crushing hard problems.



So I think we’re doing the Happy’s today – its COLD (and perfect) here in Bishop.

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