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Life on the road…

You know.  Things really get a little froggy for the modern technical age punks like me when my daily dose of internet is denied….The library closed for FOUR days!  Four days!  What the heck did I do with myself?  Well.  I didn’t really miss it honestly.

I had several AWESOME climbing days!!!  and a really rad fishing rest day too!

It was Lena’s last day and she was really psyched for Great White Behemoth so we went up there and I belayed her for four – near perfect one-hang goes on the route but no send!!  Sorry Lena!!! At least I know that I can talk her into coming here again next year!

Then it was my turn.  We walked over to the French Cattle Ranch so I could try my project: Dances with Cows 5.13a.  I had previously worked out the beta for this route.  For the most part, the route is easy – maybe 12- climbing except for one really hard boulder problem!  I had worked out the boulder problem – for me a long lock-off (skipping several monos) to a bad sloper pocket.  Prior to the trip I had trained lock-offs extensively and it really paid off on my trip.  My first go of the day, (essentially my warm-up), I hike the route to the crux, but just couldn’t hold the darned pocket!  Ugh!  I had it down to 1 out of 3 off the hang so I decided to try something different and BINGO.  I realized that if I locked off EVEN FURTHER to the next pocket, I could do it!  OK.  We’ll go into my normal route description beta style from here:

Dances with Cows 5.13a:

A fairly painful boulder problem (small edges with little feet) leads to a good jug and some longer moves on good holds with plenty of feet.  The difficult slowly crescendos but the climbing is “fast” and you find yourself at the crux before you know it!  The crux starts off with a bunch of great left feet and two excellent incut hand holds.  Above you though, are two bad monos and, a sloper pocket up and left and an incut sloper pocket (yah its incut, and its a sloper….) just a little bit past that.  This other dude who was working with it was tick-tacking up the monos to the bad sloper pocket but was having little luck.  I got a high left foot, intermediated off the first sloper pocket to stab the second more incut pocket.  Its a two finger with a little spike for a thumb below it.  From here, you get your right on a small right smear and stick this hooded two finger pocket.  From here, you have two more long pulls on  so-so two fingers, climbing past the bolt to a good hold and a clip at your chest.  From here its maybe 12- sequential pocket pulling (you really want to know the sequence) with plenty of rests to the anchor.

Here is a photo from Tara Reynvaan’s blog:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ybnwG0kXtmE/UCvXZqF6hpI/AAAAAAAAC0g/hVAeD9G3EDQ/s1600/_MG_0579.jpg

and the blog post:

http://tarareynvaan.blogspot.com/2012/08/rock-choss-to-city-choss.html

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