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  • Joe’s Valley…Alpine Climbing? No seriously…its the last page of the guidebook

Joe’s Valley…Alpine Climbing? No seriously…its the last page of the guidebook

That’s right.  If you drive up the right fork for 7.5 miles (not 7.6 that the book says) and turn left, there’s a bunch of trees, grass and a bald knob (above the tree line)  Its crazy.  And the boulders .  Are.  Awesome!

On the last day of our trip, we took advice from the Canadians and checked out the Dairy Canyon.  We were not disappointed.  I started out by working on the individual movements of “Cook the Patty” V6, all tactics style and was surprised to send it really fast!  My first RP go, I fell because I missed an obvious hold, took a quick break, then sent that rig!  The problem climbs this featured arete with a rather difficult sit start and some balancy arete moves which culminate into a dead point move way out left (steep too) to a decent jug/sidepull.  From there, you walk your hands across decent holds (which I missed the first time) then match the jug (wild move, but not hard) finishing with a pretty-easy-to-no-screw-up topout.

Setting up for the crux on “Cook the Patty” V6.

Sticking the crux on “Cook the Patty” V6.

Easy topout on “Cook the Patty” V6.

After that, we head up to the next boulder, which reminded me a lot of “Priest Draw” in Arizona.  Instead of a free standing boulder, there was maybe a 15 foot cliff line with a low deep roof (great holds), to bulge with heinous slopers over the top.  I was immediately draw to “Baldwin Bash” V7, though with such a tough grade, I didn’t expect to send it, though after maybe 15 tries, I send it by the skin of my teeth!! I was so excited.  The topout was absolutely desperate for me:  Pull hard on a small right hand crimp with so-so feet over the bulge!!  The send of this problem in the ideal settings added the cherry of top of my perfect trip!

Baldwin Bash V7. 

We finished the day by climbing “Vertical Ice” V6, which was said to be easier than Isosceles and infact, I think that it was!  I managed to get it 2nd or 3rd try!  Good climbing!  Definitely a gift for V6 (more like V4.)

Vera Warmbrunn flashing “Vertical Ice” V6.

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