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Gym Climbing v Gym Training?

We’ve had a gym here in Charleston, WV for about 9 months now?  Maybe less? This is the first time that I’ve been a serious climber and had a substantial climbing gym to train and climb at.  I say to Train AND Climbing because I’m starting to realize the difference and see the difference.

Just climbing at the gym is fun.  We’re a pretty small gym community – like we know everyone’s name and so forth and about half of the climbers at the gym have set or helped set.  I’ve been enjoyed going and climbing projects, helping others climb their projects etc, but my friend Matt who has been continually influencing my climbing since we met several years ago suggested that I start adding some “training” to my gym session.

After I’ve exhausted my “social climbing session”, I’ve been putting on a 20 lb weight vest and progressively climbing more laps on two specific V0 jug problems, one on the 15 degree wall and one on the 30 degree wall.  I use open feet and move slow and methodically.  Also after my gym sessions, I’ve been doing the P90x ab ripper x workout.  Holy Cow!  I have basically been hitting brick walls on my climbing at the gym – for the most part, I can flash the V4s, get the V5s really fast if I’m fresh and just fail big time on the V6s.  After only two weeks of “training”, I’m making significant progress on all of my projects there.  Its great!

-Dan

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