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  • Energy Rock Gym Setting Night on Monday.

Energy Rock Gym Setting Night on Monday.

For some reason, It seems across the board that Blogspot’s images are not loading so I will not post any until they start loading again.

It was setting night at the Energy Rock Gym in Charleston.  Fresh off my trip to Crimper’s Climbing, I decided to change things up from my normal, flowy, comfy holds, but long moves to…well…more out of balance movement on worse holds with longer reaches.  OK. so I only did that on a couple problems!  Those problems do replicate more “outdoor” movements, and I’ll explain why that is important to a gym to crag climber.

In climbing, movement is specific.  As children, we were all climbers.  Climbing trees, climbing onto the counter, that sort of thing, but we forget that as we get older….or we just start climbing 5.14.

As a route setter, the goal of a specific route/problem is to design a set of specific movements for a particular climber.  Of course, a V9 bouldered will intuitively skip half the moves on a V3, but who cares about those guys anyways right?  <3

A beginner and to some extend, an intermediate climber is constantly adding new movement to their repertoire (bag of tricks.)  At first, the climber will think the movement is impossible or for them, will be too difficult.  After trying the movement, however, the climber will at first chuffer their way through it, then with practice, have that dialed.  They now will be able to do that movement easily and repeat/elaborate on that movement.

In the gym, an advanced climber already has all the movements down or can elaborate fairly easily, so their primary focus is strength.  This type of climber will avoid movement that is “tweaky”, “painful”, or focuses specifically on a movement that is injury prone “gastons.”

Well, shoot me, but I set an out of balance gaston problem!  I can’t even do it because it hurts my elbow too much, but what the heck right? Its a typical outdoor climbing movement that was featured on my past project:  Pettifogger, though the problem I set climbs nothing like that route specifically.

Lets see if this works:

Forced Gaston Movement.
——————————————————

  3   Finishing Jug


feet


                   <-2 (gaston) – one direction edge facing left
feet

                        no feet

   1     Horizontal edge

feet                   no feet.

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