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Day 5 and Day 6 of Ten Sleep

Hot off the rest day and with actual real skin on my fingers, not to mention a whole crap ton of Hoofmaker, we hiked up to Superractic.  I don’t know if I’ve become a better hiker, or I just have realized that the hikes at Ten Sleep are disgustingly bad, but the hike up to Superractic didn’t feel disgustingly bad for once!  I stopped a whole bunch and rested a lot but still!  I didn’t totally hate myself when I rolled up to the crag.

Bob Value working “Tatonka” 5.13a.  Photo Julia Statler.

I set my sites on “Tatonka” 5.13a.  I had previously tried this route last year, though I didn’t try it super hard.  I got on it, realized the holds were minuscule and bailed.  Keep in mind, this was before I had started doing my hangboard routine.

Holds on Tatonka 5.13a.  What to expect…
Holds on Tatonka 5.13a.  What to expect…
Holds on Tatonka 5.13a.  What to expect…

Holds on Tatonka 5.13a.  What to expect…

I got on the route with my trust stick clip and worked out all the moves.  The boulder problem right off the ?second bolt to the third bolt is definitely the crux.  After clipping the third bolt, there is one more hard move, then its maybe 12- to the anchors.

The climb starts off with some relatively easy climbing up to a good jug/flake hold.

Then it comes in….like a wrecking ball.  A really small two finger pocket sets you up for a super high step and some techy feet, culminating with a LONG lock-off to a tiny crimper.  From here you clip (oh boy) and do one more fancy foot move, climbing out left to a grizzly sidepull with a thumb catch.  You’re almost done at this point, but have ONE MORE hard lock off move to a really painful grizzler hold.  From there its only mid range 5.12 to the top!

I worked the route figured out the moves and totally pulled the thing out of my butt second go.  I was really surprised to do the thing, though having fresh skin I think made all the difference in the world and I managed to climb it perfect.

Day 6 I really sort of sucked big time.

Pussy Toes 5.12d

Heres a picture of what that Hand-Hock hold on “Sleep Reaction” 5.13a did to me!

I started out by warming up on my first project of the day, “Pussy Toes” 5.12d.  I had previously been on the route and remember that its just a hard boulder problem (small holds) and then some pulling.

I remember correctly.  I almost go the day-flash warm-up on the boulder problem, but came up short.  I worked out the moves, then easily fired the rig second go.

Pussy Toes 5.12d at the French Cattle Ranch starts off with some OK to decent holds,  but quickly gets big and small.  Beta varies, but there’s a really good right facing-ish gaston hold above the second bolt.  If you can get that, you’re in.  I was happy to see how well my training paid off for me and this one went down really well.

I spent the rest of the day project sniffing – I tried Blue Light Speical 5.13a/b but couldn’t do the long crux move off the hang (I think I could have if I spent time on it – but passssss!),  Bro Job 5.13a is a total sharp POS and then I tried Super Mama 5.13b which is actually awesome!  I figured if I could get but up the FCR on the trip, I would project that one or maybe Blue Light, but felt that both would take too much work for me to do on the trip.  Projects for next time though!

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