I just finished up my periodization hangboarding workout.  The thing with hangboarding is that the training program calls for about a dozen hangboard workouts, separated by 60 to 72 hours of rest with NO CLIMBING during that period.  So you basically need to take a month off and dedicate it to hangboarding.  The problem with this, which is addressed in the next phase of the cycle is that you lose lock-off strength and enduro.

For me, enduro has always been money in the bank so I figured what the heck – I’ll try my project from the spring season – “Crossing the Line” 5.13b.

Conditions for summer were perfect at the Meadow on Friday.  I regretted not bringing a jacket and wearing shorts, but I borrowed a pull-over from my buddy Paul and proceeded to easily warm-up sending “Made in the Shade” 5.12d.  From there, I didn’t look back.  I did a beta run on “Crossing the Line” falling at the opening boulder problem, then working the route bolt-to-bolt to the top, brushing, ticking etc.  My second burn of the day, I fell – once again on the boulder problem at the bottom, but from the rest, took the route to the top!

My third go, I managed to climb the boulder problem clean (my first time ever), then took the route to the top!!! I was sooooo super stoked.  My hangboard definitely paid off – every hold on the route felt like a jug to me!  Even the bad holds!  The final boulder problem on the route climbs a vertical to slabby headwall with a 1/4 pad slimper.  It was my *itch…!!!

Here are a few photos of Lena and I on the new “Rock Prodigy Hangboard.”  This board was developed in conjunction with the training program that I hinted above.  I think the book should be out this spring some time?  Maybe?  Anyways…totally worth it.  I jumped 3 letter grades in 6 months!!

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge