climber
map of north america

Crossing the Line!

I just finished up my periodization hangboarding workout.  The thing with hangboarding is that the training program calls for about a dozen hangboard workouts, separated by 60 to 72 hours of rest with NO CLIMBING during that period.  So you basically need to take a month off and dedicate it to hangboarding.  The problem with this, which is addressed in the next phase of the cycle is that you lose lock-off strength and enduro.

For me, enduro has always been money in the bank so I figured what the heck – I’ll try my project from the spring season – “Crossing the Line” 5.13b.

Conditions for summer were perfect at the Meadow on Friday.  I regretted not bringing a jacket and wearing shorts, but I borrowed a pull-over from my buddy Paul and proceeded to easily warm-up sending “Made in the Shade” 5.12d.  From there, I didn’t look back.  I did a beta run on “Crossing the Line” falling at the opening boulder problem, then working the route bolt-to-bolt to the top, brushing, ticking etc.  My second burn of the day, I fell – once again on the boulder problem at the bottom, but from the rest, took the route to the top!

My third go, I managed to climb the boulder problem clean (my first time ever), then took the route to the top!!! I was sooooo super stoked.  My hangboard definitely paid off – every hold on the route felt like a jug to me!  Even the bad holds!  The final boulder problem on the route climbs a vertical to slabby headwall with a 1/4 pad slimper.  It was my *itch…!!!

Here are a few photos of Lena and I on the new “Rock Prodigy Hangboard.”  This board was developed in conjunction with the training program that I hinted above.  I think the book should be out this spring some time?  Maybe?  Anyways…totally worth it.  I jumped 3 letter grades in 6 months!!

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Matt Behrens – Crossing the Line 5.13b Area 51 at the New River Gorge

Post navigation

The vision for the Trango athlete team is to find climbers who embody our brand’s values and support them in their climbing endeavors. We focus on the character of the climber, their passion for the sport, and their desire to contribute to the community.

Meet the Team

Featured Events

There are currently no upcoming events.

All Events

Partners

The American Alpine Club American Mountain Guides Association Access Fund Leave No Trace - lnt.org

Archives

Authors

Facebooktwittergoogle_pluspinterestmail
eGrips Tenaya Fast Rope Descender

© Trango - All Rights Reserved