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Kelly Cordes: Head-Bashing 101

We all love Kelly Cordes. After all, he's one of the few climbers out there who can keep up with me in the coveted "Tough To Kill" category. He's also about as badass as you can get in the highly competitive "Alpine Badass" category. We all…
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CB BLAK: A Mnemonic to Save Your Ass

About 20 years ago my partner and I were inspecting the route "Sequential" in the Kloof Alcove in Eldo. I rapped off first and, just when I had gone into free-hanging mode about 5' below the edge of the roof, one end of the rappel ropes ran…

Why I Hate Cordalettes

Last summer when I was belaying my partner on the Bastille,  another climber came in from the side a began to set up a belay about 15' away. I was at the big ramp on the top of the long first pitch of the Bastille Crack and he came in from…

The Best Way to Rig the Lower/Rappel off of a Sport Route

Here's a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for daisies or chicken slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points. The leader climbs normally until…
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The Best Sleeping Rig for Pickup Trucks

Hidden in the back of my 2003 Toyota Tacoma is super-simple, super cheap and comfy sleeping rig. It goes in and out in less than a minute, and I can get two bikes and 3 full-height ActionPackers and a cooler inside. I can hang out and cook inside…
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got stump?

I continue to be amazed at the support that the ice climbing community shows for the Ouray Ice Park. Sure, it's a unique resource that draws ice climbers from world-over, but I think there's more going on than that. Maybe it's a community that…