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Category Archives: Media

New Anderson Brothers Podcast

by Mark Anderson

Last week Mike and I did another podcast with our friend Neely Quinn over at TrainingBeta.com.  You can check out the podcast here.

The interview runs about an hour and covers a wide variety of topics including:

  • What went into designing the Rock Prodigy Forge, and why we think it’s the most advanced hangboard on the market.
  • What we learned at the International Rock Climbing Research Association conference, what other research we are working on, which questions need further study.
  • How I trained differently for my ascent of Shadowboxing.
  • Mike’s recent 8a+ and 8b onsights in Europe.
  • Whether or not hangboarding causes forearm hypertrophy.
  • The secret to climbing hard with a family.
  • Questions & Answers from the Training Beta Facebook community
Mike crushing at the Schleierwasserfall

Mike crushing at the Schleierwasserfall

Hope you enjoy the listen, and if it generates any questions, please share them in a comment below, or (ideally) in the Rock Prodigy Forum.

Be sure to follow us on Instagram at @Rock_Climbers_Training_Manual

 

Anderson Brothers Interview at PaleoTreats

Anderson Brothers thinking about training.

Anderson Brothers thinking about training.

Earlier this week Mike and I were invited on Nik Hawks’ podcast over at PaleoTreats.  PaleoTreats is a web-based mail order company that makes delicious and nutritious desserts for active and health-conscious folks.  In their own words,

“…We’ve been making foodie-approved Paleo desserts since 2009. We are serious about flavor, texture, ingredients and Paleo. Yes, all of them. We’ve shipped around the world, from Australia to Afghanistan, and we’ve ironed out all the kinks of getting a great dessert to your door.”

Nik’s podcast isn’t really about that though.  He’s interviewed an impressively diverse group of folks covering the gamut from elite athletes, to coaches and nutrition experts, focused on a wide variety of sports.  He’s really interested in the pursuit of excellence, and the common factors that make athletes successful, regardless of their athletic vocation.  Our podcast covered a variety of topics, including:

  • Goal-Setting in life and sports
  • How to develop the ability to work hard in yourself and your kids
  • The time and place for skill development in climbing
  • What we’re most proud of (in a training sense), and what we would change about the RCTM
  • How self-esteem (or lack thereof) has impacted our motivation and success
  • The next big innovations in climbing training

(Pretty much the only thing we didn’t talk about is food)

Check out the podcast here!

This photo has nothing to do with the adjacent text. Sticking the crux dyno on Nailed It, 12d, at the Sterling Wall.

This photo has nothing to do with this blog post. Sticking the crux dyno on Nailed It, 12d, at the Sterling Wall.

Slide Show Oct 31 at Shelf Road

by Mark Anderson

High on the First Ascent of Shelf Road's hardest climb, Flight of the Phoenix, 5.14a/b.

High on the First Ascent of Shelf Road’s hardest climb, Flight of the Phoenix, 5.14a/b.

The American Alpine Club’s Craggin Classic series will be descending on Shelf Road this weekend.  The festivities will include clinics on Saturday and Sunday, food and beverages, a costume contest and slideshows Friday and Saturday night.

Friend of the Show Jonathan Siegrist will be presenting Friday night and I will be presenting a slideshow Saturday with help from Shelf Road pioneer and all-around legend Bob D’Antonio.  The Saturday night show is scheduled to begin ~8pm, followed by a Halloween costume contest.  Bob is expected to talk about the early days at Shelf, and it’s seminal role in establishing the nascent discipline of sport climbing in America.  My show will center on my recent efforts to raise the upper limits of difficulty at Shelf into the 5.14-range, including video footage of Shelf’s best hard lines.

I believe the festivities will be centered around the Horse Trailer Parking area, which is located at the bottom of the hill, where the road to The Bank splits off from Shelf Road.

I will also be teaching a clinic on Saturday that will have something to do with training and climbing.  I anticipate I will present a top-level overview of the Rock Prodigy method, and then discuss methods for maximizing performance on the rock.  Unfortunately the clinic is full, but if you’re out at Shelf for the weekend, please come by and say high and enjoy the slideshow.

Independence Day

In honor of our nation’s liberation from the tyrannical tax policies of King George*, we hope you take the opportunity to free something that was, for you at least, previously subjugated by the oppressive bonds of “A0”.

In other news, we have a bunch of random announcements to make.  First, if you haven’t already, please check out our Podcast Interview with Neely Quinn over on TrainingBeta.com.  We discuss a number of fascinating topics, including:

  • How we got into training
  • Our biggest accomplishments in climbing
  • How much we train, and how little YOU need to train
  • Balancing work, family, training and climbing
  • Training in Afghanistan
  • The best training tools, and who should use them
  • JStar’s training program
  • Running and climbing
  • Diet
  • How to polish off a long term project

If none of those topics interest you, you can make a fun 4th of July drinking game out of trying to guess which one of us is talking at any given point in the interview.

Second, the entire Anderson clan will be in Lander, Wyoming next weekend for the International Climber’s Festival.  If you’re in the area come say hello, or sign up for our clinic.  We will be at the Trade Fair Friday afternoon at City Park (look for the Trango tent), then at Wild Iris (the crag, not the shop) Saturday morning for the shoe demo and clinic.  You may also see us around the crags before or after the official events.  You’ve been warned 🙂

Keith North trying my new 13b-ish line Apoca-Lips Now.

Keith North trying my new 13b-ish jug haul Apoca-Lips Now.  Photo Mark Anderson

Finally, we’ve been climbing a fair bit over the last few weeks, uncommonly so.  I’ve been fortunate to help out with the development of a new eye-popping crag in Clear Creek Canyon.  This crag will be described in Kevin Capps’ upcoming Clear Creek guidebook, published by Fixed Pin, which should be available sometime this Fall**.  The crag is unusual for Clear Creek in that the routes are super steep, relatively juggy, and yet, quite continuous.  It reminds me a lot of the Arsenal (at Rifle).   The rock quality is “mixed”, to put it nicely, but the best rock is outstanding, reminiscent of the best quartzite at the Gunks.   If you’re willing to climb through short sections of flaky pegmatite there is some really fun climbing to be had.

Kevin Capps near the lip turn on Apoca-Lips Now.

Kevin Capps near the lip turn on Apoca-Lips Now. Thirty feet of horizontal climbing on mostly massive jugs! Photo Keith North.

Thanks to Keith North for providing a few of the photos.  You can check out more of his shots of this crag on his blog.

Figuring out the foot sequence before the FA of Full Metal Jacket, 5.13c.  Photo Keith North.

Figuring out the foot sequence before the FFA of Full Metal Jacket, 5.13c. Photo Keith North.

Video still of me on the FA of Valkyrie, 5.14a?

Video still of me on the FA of Valkyrie, 5.14a? The green fixed line is attached to the Valkyrie anchor, and is directly “behind” me, providing a good indication of the crag’s steepness.

*To our many readers residing in the UK or the other realms of George’s descendants, we say, “Solidarity brothers (and sisters)…and sisters! 🙂

**I don’t have the best track record when it comes to predicting publication dates

 

 

 

 

 

Slideshow in Golden, CO, May 14th @ 6:00pm!

I will be presenting a slide show at Bent Gate Mountaineering’s Community Night on Wednesday, May 14th.  Festivities run from 6:00-8:30pm.  Here’s a Google Map of the location.

I’ll be talking about how I evolved from a novice climber to my current level, and key ascents that inspired me to improve along the way.  In particular I’ll be talking about some of the hard milestone climbs I’ve done recently like Mission Impossible.  There will be loads of SWAG–Trango has been extremely generous and will be giving away a Rock Prodigy Training Center as well as a few rope bags and other goodies.  There might also be a very special RCTM celebrity guest (TBD).  It promises to be a good time, and I hope to see you there!

Mark_Anderson_Facebook_Poster

Slideshow in Golden, CO, May 14th @ 6:00pm!

I will be presenting a slide show at Bent Gate Mountaineering’s Community Night on Wednesday, May 14th.  Festivities run from 6:00-8:30pm.  Here’s a Google Map of the location.

I’ll be talking about how I evolved from a novice climber to my current level, and key ascents that inspired me to improve along the way.  In particular I’ll be talking about some of the hard milestone climbs I’ve done recently like Mission Impossible.  There will be loads of SWAG–Trango has been extremely generous and will be giving away a Rock Prodigy Training Center as well as a few rope bags and other goodies.  There might also be a very special RCTM celebrity guest (TBD).  It promises to be a good time, and I hope to see you there!

Mark_Anderson_Facebook_Poster

Recommended Reading – Revelations by Jerry Moffatt

The holidays are upon us, which means friends and relatives will soon be pestering you for your wish list.  If you don’t already have it, I highly recommend asking Santa for a copy of Jerry Moffatt’s outstanding autobiography Revelations.

RevelationsJerry Moffatt was probably the best climber in the world for most of the 1980s, and he continued to push standards throughout the 90′s.  He was integral to the explosion in free climbing standards that occurred during the 1980s.  He was also a highly accomplished trad, headpoint, and solo climber and perhaps the best on sight climber of his generation.

While Moffatt’s story is a fascinating and entertaining read in itself, I mention it here because the book also offers countless insights for the performance-oriented climber.  Moffatt was among the first climbers to really embrace training, and he goes into considerable detail explaining how he trained for different objectives.  He also recounts the legendary characters (like Bachar and Gullich) that influenced his ideas on training, while discussing his thought process when developing training plans for different goals.

Moffatt possessed legendary focus and determination.  He dreamt big, but he backed up his dreams with hard work and tremendous effort in the moment of each ascent.  His book describes in detail how he approached stressful performance situations (like the first On Sight ascent of the Gunks’ Supercrack and World Championship competitions).  Any climber, of any ability, can benefit from these lessons.

ANY climber can benefit from Moffatt's considerable wisdom!  Photo: Nick Clement

ANY climber can benefit from Moffatt’s considerable wisdom! Photo: Nick Clement

While Moffatt was often head and shoulders above his peers, he was not superman.  He provides a glimpse into an elite world that most of us will never experience, yet his story is very relatable.  He frankly describes his various injuries and accidents, humanizing himself while tackling the frustration and despair that comes with any setback.  He confronts many of the same challenges we all face on our own paths to continuous improvement, giving us real hope that we can overcome them too.

I’ve read the book cover-to-cover three times now, and I will surely read it again.  Its hands-down my favorite climbing book.  His trials and eventual triumphs never fail to motivate me, and should give you the extra boost you need to fire up your winter training sessions.

For those who’ve already enjoyed Revelations, here are some other recommendations.  None of these are technical manuals; they are entertaining reads that also impart random snippets of climbing wisdom:

Wolfgang Gullich: Life in the Vertical by Tillmann Hepp.  This biography of the world’s most beloved climber is now out of english print and therefore correspondingly rare and expensive.  However, if you can get your hands on a copy you won’t be disappointed (check your library or ask around–the AAC Library in Golden has a copy).  In addition to recounting Gullich’s countless ground-breaking ascents, the book also discusses his training methods, tactics, and attitudes, including several interviews and short pieces penned by Gullich himself.

Beyond the Summit by Todd Skinner.  This book describes Todd’s quest to free Trango Tower, but also details his development as a climber and other groundbreaking ascents like the Free Salathe Wall.  As a training tool, this book will help you with goal-setting and motivation.

Full of Myself by Johnny Dawes.  To put it simply, Dawes was a rock genius, in the sense that he was an artist of completely unique ability and vision.  He was never the strongest climber, but his talent for movement was incomparable.  His book goes neck-deep into what it takes to become a technical climbing master.  If you’re unfamiliar with his work, consider viewing his legendary film Stone Monkey to get an idea of his abilities (in fact, if you can find the DVD, you might just ask for that instead of the book!):

A History of Freeclimbing in North America: Wizards of Rock by Pat Ament.  This tome is an encyclopedic catalogue of noteworthy ascents from 1869 to 2001.  It’s not the kind of book you would normally read cover-to-cover, but many of the entries include long, first-person accounts from the players themselves.  It’s absolutely essential for any lover of climbing history, but it also has some good insights for the performance-oriented climber, such as interesting training and tactical tidbits from legends like John Bachar, Tony Yaniro, and Alan Watts.  Ament’s occassionally editorializing on style comes off as petty at times, but it’s generally easy to ignore.

If you have any other recommendations for books that offer a bit more than an entertaining read to get us through the long winter, please post them in a comment below.

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