We gave the new Vergo belay device to two of the world’s top climbers and filmed their day at Eldorado Canyon State Park. Here’s what they had to say.
For more information on the Vergo, visit www.TrangoVergo.com
This spring, Ethan Pringle spent some time working the iconic boulders of Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. He came away with a send of ‘Meadowlark Lemon’ (V14) and several close calls on ‘The Nest’ (V15). Here’s a quick edit of the Meadowlark Lemon send and a burn on The Nest from Tara Kerzhner.
After a month-long battle of hope, frustration, failure, emotion, and eventual success, Ethan Pringle sent the Spanish test-piece, La Reina Mora (14d).
“Well, I really couldn’t have imagined a better last day in Siurana. For the first time in over a week I felt only love instead of frustration and anger. With a wide open heart full of excitement and happiness, though not really caring how I did, I finally climbed to the top of La Reina Mora and clipped the anchor in a swell of emotion. It’s been a wild ride, and the process of projecting this climb and putting everything I had into it taught me more about life and compassion (especially for myself) than I could have thought possible…” – Ethan Pringle post-send
After sending La Reina Mora, Ethan went on to polish off his long-standing project and North America’s hardest sport route, Jumbo Love (15b).
Yesterday, Trango and Tenaya athlete Ethan Pringle made the second ascent of ‘Jumbo Love’ (5.15b), North America’s hardest sport climb at Clark Mountain, California. Pringle has been working the route since the mid 2000’s and has spent much of the past two months on redpoint attempts.
Jumbo Love was established by Chris Sharma in 2008. The aptly named route climbs from Clark’s third tier through a ~70ft 12d, the crux headwall boasting about 100ft of 40 degree overhanging bullet stone with a V11/12 crux, and then a ~70ft 13d headwall. The scale of the route is immense.
While projecting Jumbo Love, Ethan also sent notable Clark routes like ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’ (5.14a) and ‘Jumbo Glass’ (5.14c).
Trango Product Manager Adam Sanders had this to say about the ascent: “The scale of this accomplishment for American rock climbing is huge, and I’m so thankful that Ethan stepped up and put in the effort to make the second ascent. This climb means a lot to me. I’ve been wishing for years that someone would commit to it, and I’m sure I’m not the only one. Congrats and much gratitude to Ethan!”
Some days just aren’t your days, but some day are! Yesterday I was slipping off the upper crux of ‘Power Animal’ (V13) just like on my previous day of attempts, but on my third go of the day I decided to just try really really hard to hang on and stick the undercling (picture here) and it worked! I screamed my way through the last few moves and topped that bad boy out. A wave of joy and relief washed over me and I was mentally amped, yelling at the top of my lungs. It’s been a battle on this trip, wondering if I’d go home empty handed after being in full on project mode, doing only the same couple warm-ups and trying the same couple nails-hard boulders for the last two weeks, but I’m glad my focus paid off! I don’t know if the rare humid conditions that’ve been plaguing the desert recently made this problem feel harder than it should have felt, or maybe my skin was soft from the salve I put on it the day before (I’m never using salve again!), or if it’s just a hard problem, but it’s certainly a #kingline that was well worth the effort in the end. #Psyched it’s done. We got some iPhone footage of the send that I’ll be editing up and throwing online soon! I’m already fantasizing about the next projects…
Check out the rough send footage:
Thanks so much to everyone who hiked pads up, spotted, supported and documented over the fours days on this rig! Couldn’t have done it without you.
Ethan joining Team Trango brings the vision of our athlete team full circle. We focus on the character of the climber, their passion for the sport, and their desire to contribute to the community. Welcoming a climber of Ethan’s ability rounds out the statement we are making – we don’t think the grade you climb at dictates the quality of your experience, and we are a company that exists for every climber, including those who are pushing standards. Ethan has established many routes up to 5.14d, redpointed Realization (5.15a), sent Wheel of Life (V14), free climbed El Capitan, and placed extremely well in significant competitions. He is a core climber and he works hard – and that’s why we work so well together.
Here’s what Ethan has to say about his new role as a Trango and Tenaya ambassador:
“I am stoked to announce my new partnership with two companies that I really respect for their gear, ethos, and passion for rock climbing—Trango and Tenaya. Not only do these companies sell top-notch products, but they are run by some of the best folks in the industry. Trango is a climbing gear manufacturer that provides a wide variety of high-quality products and has really redefined themselves in the past few years – these guys are doing some really rad things! Tenaya is a Spanish climbing shoe company (that Trango distributes in the US) with cutting-edge designs in performance and comfort. They have helped world-class athletes (Ramon Julian and Alex Megos, to name a few!) set records in competitions and on rock, and I can’t wait to see what these shoes will help me achieve. Both Trango and Tenaya are constantly working on developing new products and I am honored to be a part of that process. The founders and employees of these companies are hard-core climbers themselves and it is their love for our sport that fuels their business. I am so excited to have the support of two companies that are as psyched on climbing as I am! Thanks Trango and Tenaya for welcoming me into the family!”
© Trango - All Rights Reserved