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Klettersteig on the Flank of the Eiger

By Mark Anderson “Klettersteig” is German for “Via Ferrata” (which is Italian for “Iron Way”).[LINK TO INTRO-STYLE VF Post]. Klettersteigs have existed in Switzerland for decades and they have some of the best in the world, including the best two I’ve ever done—the Eiger Rotstock and Murren via ferrats. The Eiger Rotstock route is not…
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Sport Climbing in Canada Part 1

By Mark Anderson A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of meeting long-time climber and developer of the Sloper Climbing App Jeff Moore. The Sloper Climbing App is the next big thing in smart phone climbing tech. It’s definitely worth checking out, but that’s not what this post is about. Jeff lives in Canmore,…
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Be a Climber: Quitting (and re-creating) Your Day Job

The juxtaposition of my life does not go unnoticed by my closest friends and family. On one hand I love order, control, routine. Type A personality stuff. On the other hand, the well-defined and fully explored bores me to death and I crave adventure,…
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10 Alpine Climbing Tips

Are you dreaming of high alpine peaks? Beautiful sublime faces of rock and ice? Surreal corniced ridges and crimson sunsets? Alpine climbing is one of the most committing and unforgiving forms of climbing, but with a little practice and solid…
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Putting the Project on a Pedestal

by Mark Anderson A recent discussion got me thinking about some of the mental impediments to advancing to the “next level.” Whether the next level for you happens to be 5.11a or 5.15a, many of us encounter a feeling of inadequacy when pondering the next jump in difficulty—a sense that “I’m not worthy of [insert…
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The Big Year – Part 2: Forging a Partnership

With my sights set on a new alpine route in Alaska in the spring, I needed a partner I could trust and could also commit to the time off.  I scrolled through my black book and landed on Canadian crusher Alik Berg.  Thing was: we had never…
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Flashback Series Episode 1: TNT!

Happy Cinco de Mayo friends!  Today is an important day for The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, the 37th anniversary of the authors’ birth.  To commemorate the occasion, here is the first in a new “Flashback Series” of tales of past adventures.   The below story was selected because it has a strong “twin” theme that we…
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Sport Alpine Climbing and Siege Sport Climbing

I’m currently reading Greg Crouch’s fascinating book “Enduring Patagonia”. I’ve always had this thought in the back of my mind that when the kids are grown up I’ll go climb Cerro Torre for “fun”.  After reading Crouch’s book I now … Continue reading
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20 – 12’s in 2012

Plus one 5.13!After the June trip to Yosemite I needed an obtainable/fun goal to occupy my mind.  Summer in Estes is filled with too much work, a lot of play, and minimal amounts of sleep.  I rallied friends and co-workers, "let's all try…
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Oregon Territory

I made it back “home” to Oregon earlier this month for the wedding of two of my best friends & climbing partners, Fred Gomez and Heather Wales.  “Freather”, as they like to be called, are rare examples of high school … Continue reading