Red Rock Baby!!!
Man. What a trip. My last trip to Red Rock was maybe 2 or 3 years ago and I was like...eh.... but man. I'm so glad I attended the Red Rock Rendezvous with team Trango this past weekend. I had so much fun!!The highlight of my trip was doing my first "big" route - Cloud Tower 11+. I had previous climbed a 3 pitch route with my bro Adam Sanders last time I was in Colorado - "Outer Space" in Eldorado Canyon. Just like that time, doing "Cloud Tower" I was given the "client" treatment by Adam as well as teammate "Chris Barlow".
 |
| Chris Barlow on the Crux Pitch of Cloud Tower |
I was given point on the first two pitches - both 5.8 which I linked. I was really happy with myself being a predominant sport climber that I was able to link these two pitches climbing them both efficiently and quickly! I was sparse, but safe on the pro, and managed to get the right size pretty much right off the sling every time! The climbing on these first two pitches were excellent and what I was told "typical" for a Red Rock long route. Lots of jams up this 2-3" dihedral with a plethora of face holds, though both cruxes of the route (at least what I thought were the 5.8 cruxes) involved foot jamming.
After belaying both up, Adam got point on the third pitch. The first half of this pitch consisted of gauley scrambling which leads to a magnificent 5.10- pitch of 1-2" crack climbing and a leftward AWESOME traverse to a bolted belay anchor.
The crux pitch then follows: A techy, thin (but adequate to protect) tips crack up a beautiful dihedral. The crux pitch involves two separate cruxes, a balancy, techy "GO FOR THE GOOD HOLD" move over some decent pro and a bolt, then a really really thin tips section with delicate smears and thin locks....once again, good protection: lots of small cams and nuts.
 |
| Chris Barlow on the Crux Pitch of Cloud Tower |
I was quite happy to flash the crux pitch on top-rope and was super stoked to watch Adam onsight the pitch, then also shoot images of Chris red-pointing the pitch (he had previously sent this pitch on another trip.)
I was on point again and I feel like I was given the most elegant pitch, the 5th pitch a 2-4" 5.10 crack which climbs out a small roof about 20 feet off the belay. The crux involves a smooth, no-face-hold section of 4" crack involving both lay-backs and putting both feet in the crack!
The 6th pitch is basically a 40 foot - NO PRO pitch that involves climbing a wide crack, through a chimney to the belay for the final pitch. I won't say much about this pitch, but leave it to the excitment of the reader when they climb this one...its easy trust me...but a #4 big bro would go a long way ;)
The 7th pitch (11c) is really an after-thought pitch. From the belay of the 6th pitch, you can just rap off..but, you step through this cave and what do you see??? A freaking INDIAN CREEK SPLITTER CRACK!!!! It was awesome. Unfortunately, I did not send this pitch and had to lower off, though I have all kinds of excuses, the main one being that the sun was just brutal. If you reallly run up the route, you can get to this pitch while its in the shade (the whole rest of the route IS in the shade), but taking photos and with a party of 3, by the time we got to this pitch, it was full on sun and I just got baked. Both Adam and Chris crushed it though.
And that's it??? RIGHT???? WRONNNG>>>>> Stay tuned for my next blog post title "Oh Grasshopper Why Wouldn't You Just Come Down" or "Cocoa, You Always Pulled for Me, but Why Could n't Grasshopper Just Give Me the Tug?" FYI Grasshopper and Cocoa were the names of the two ropes we used. See the last picture...
 |
| Chris Barlow on the Final Pitch (11c) of Cloud Tower |
 |
| Chris Barlow on the Final Pitch (11c) of Cloud Tower |
 |
| The next day...why Grasshopper wouldn't pull. |
Jackson Falls!!!
I had the opportunity to visit and sample the climbing at Jackson Falls, Illinois last weekend. What an awesome climbing area!!!The drive for me was pretty chill, though long. 7 hours across interstate 64. Pretty hard to beat that - a straight interstate shot until the exit for the place (its another hour on winding back roads off the interstate, but who is counting right?)
My first day climbing there, it was cold and cloudy, my buddy Yusuf and I basically just ran around as I scoped out the entire place.
I wanted to start out easy, so I did two routes on Spleef Peak, The Garden Route (5.10a) and Blue Spark (5.8). Then, we headed over to do what Yusuf touted as one of the best at Jackson: Group Therapy (5.10b). I absolutely LOVED that route!! The movement was just incredible, good moves up a gently overhanging face through GREAT positive jugs! What a classic route.
Next, I wanted to try some harder routes, so I picked The Reckoning (5.12a) as my first hard route.
Wow. What a route. An easier start leads to some decent holds, then an IN-YOUR-FACE crux. I found myself on a good hold, looking at another good hold that was facing the wrong direction. I won't give it away (well maybe I will) but I had to fall into this really awesome right facing jug!!
I was worried about the top a little bit too, being onsite, though I managed to squeak through to the chains easy for my first 12a onsite at Jackson Falls.
We finished the day on "Void Warrior" 5.11d which felt more like 12a or 12b. The crux involves a long crank on a sharp and desperate mono, then the climbing eases off big time. This was my least favorite route at Jackson Falls. Sorry Void Warrior, you stink!
Day 2 was my glory day. Conditions were perfect. It was cool, but crisp, not cold though. We warmed up at the "Lonely Boulder" where I onsited "Lonley Arete" 5.11a which was an exquisit arete with great moves!
 |
| Hidden Treasure |
 |
| Hidden Treasure |
 |
| Hidden Treasure |
I decided to up the anty and try "Hidden Treasure" 5.12a onsite. This route was suggested to me by my bro Adam Sanders and I HAD to try it! The first half of the route was pretty easy, though I took it slow, THEN, there is a desperately thin traverse section with small holds leading to a decent edge. From the edge, you clip, then do the heartbreaker crux. You can see that the next hold is good, and you're on a good hold, but there is only one decent foot hold and its definitely in the wrong place. I noticed a bunch of shoe rubber on several lesser foot holds, but the clock was ticking. Luckily, I wore my Tatankas (Tenaya) and laced them tight. My foot stuck as I dead-pointed to the glory crimp, which ended up being worse than I thought, but I stuck it. From here, I tick-tacked up the rest of the route to the chains feeling that I was living the good life!
After that, I took a bit of a break and shot photos of Brad Errett on "Snake Roof" 5.12c. I want to get on that thing...looks rad, but I wanted to try and stick to easier stuff this trip.
 |
| Snake Roof |
Continuing on the "awesome" tour, we headed to the "Venom" boulder where I did the classic moderate slab - Spider From Mars (5.10b) which I just loved...and man...if there wasn't a couple....oh boy try hard moments on that thing!!!! I photographed Yusuf on that route as well.
 |
| Spider from Mars |
Carrying on to the "Beaver" wall, a steep wall with obvious exciting features.
I tried but failed to onsite "Frizzle Fry" 5.12b, though I managed to nab it pretty easy 2nd go. Next, I was inspired watching some fellows work on "Everybody Needs Friends" 5.12a, which I just HAD to do and with their beta, flashed it. I shot photos of Roger Yee on it.
 |
| Frizzle Fry |
 |
| Everyone Needs Friends |
 |
| Everyone Needs Friends |
I started by flashing what Yusuf called the best 5.10 he has ever done: "Wild at Heart" then I onsited the really techy and classic "Barbarians at the Gate" 5.12a. This route starts out sick hard. Some thin moves lead to a really balancy traverse sequence between finger tip monos. A respite is gained in a 20 foot patina section, though that patina ends in which, the final crux is encountered: An exceptionally long lock-off move from a good hold to a good hold with a minuscule left finger edge to do all the foot building. What a good route. Once again, I was thankful to have my Tenaya Tantankas so I could trust the tiny smears and edges.
 |
| Barbarians at the Gate |
I finished the day with the onsite of the classic "Energizer" 5.12a. This awesome overhanging arete is on the "Black Sheep Boulder." It starts out kind of easy, good holds, though at about half height, the start of the crux begins - A big move to a giant handle-bar hold...and when you get the hold, you have no feet!! How can you have such a big hand-hold and have no feet? Well...a heel-hook leads to a serious of powerful moves up the arete, where the crux ends...as you clip the chains!!
 |
| Energizer |
Jackson Falls!!!
I had the opportunity to visit and sample the climbing at Jackson Falls, Illinois last weekend. What an awesome climbing area!!!The drive for me was pretty chill, though long. 7 hours across interstate 64. Pretty hard to beat that - a straight interstate shot until the exit for the place (its another hour on winding back roads off the interstate, but who is counting right?)
My first day climbing there, it was cold and cloudy, my buddy Yusuf and I basically just ran around as I scoped out the entire place.
I wanted to start out easy, so I did two routes on Spleef Peak, The Garden Route (5.10a) and Blue Spark (5.8). Then, we headed over to do what Yusuf touted as one of the best at Jackson: Group Therapy (5.10b). I absolutely LOVED that route!! The movement was just incredible, good moves up a gently overhanging face through GREAT positive jugs! What a classic route.
Next, I wanted to try some harder routes, so I picked The Reckoning (5.12a) as my first hard route.
Wow. What a route. An easier start leads to some decent holds, then an IN-YOUR-FACE crux. I found myself on a good hold, looking at another good hold that was facing the wrong direction. I won't give it away (well maybe I will) but I had to fall into this really awesome right facing jug!!
I was worried about the top a little bit too, being onsite, though I managed to squeak through to the chains easy for my first 12a onsite at Jackson Falls.
We finished the day on "Void Warrior" 5.11d which felt more like 12a or 12b. The crux involves a long crank on a sharp and desperate mono, then the climbing eases off big time. This was my least favorite route at Jackson Falls. Sorry Void Warrior, you stink!
Day 2 was my glory day. Conditions were perfect. It was cool, but crisp, not cold though. We warmed up at the "Lonely Boulder" where I onsited "Lonley Arete" 5.11a which was an exquisit arete with great moves!
|
| Hidden Treasure |
|
| Hidden Treasure |
|
| Hidden Treasure |
I decided to up the anty and try "Hidden Treasure" 5.12a onsite. This route was suggested to me by my bro Adam Sanders and I HAD to try it! The first half of the route was pretty easy, though I took it slow, THEN, there is a desperately thin traverse section with small holds leading to a decent edge. From the edge, you clip, then do the heartbreaker crux. You can see that the next hold is good, and you're on a good hold, but there is only one decent foot hold and its definitely in the wrong place. I noticed a bunch of shoe rubber on several lesser foot holds, but the clock was ticking. Luckily, I wore my Tatankas (Tenaya) and laced them tight. My foot stuck as I dead-pointed to the glory crimp, which ended up being worse than I thought, but I stuck it. From here, I tick-tacked up the rest of the route to the chains feeling that I was living the good life!
After that, I took a bit of a break and shot photos of Brad Errett on "Snake Roof" 5.12c. I want to get on that thing...looks rad, but I wanted to try and stick to easier stuff this trip.
|
| Snake Roof |
Continuing on the "awesome" tour, we headed to the "Venom" boulder where I did the classic moderate slab - Spider From Mars (5.10b) which I just loved...and man...if there wasn't a couple....oh boy try hard moments on that thing!!!! I photographed Yusuf on that route as well.
|
| Spider from Mars |
Carrying on to the "Beaver" wall, a steep wall with obvious exciting features.
I tried but failed to onsite "Frizzle Fry" 5.12b, though I managed to nab it pretty easy 2nd go. Next, I was inspired watching some fellows work on "Everybody Needs Friends" 5.12a, which I just HAD to do and with their beta, flashed it. I shot photos of Roger Yee on it.
|
| Frizzle Fry |
|
| Everyone Needs Friends |
|
| Everyone Needs Friends |
I started by flashing what Yusuf called the best 5.10 he has ever done: "Wild at Heart" then I onsited the really techy and classic "Barbarians at the Gate" 5.12a. This route starts out sick hard. Some thin moves lead to a really balancy traverse sequence between finger tip monos. A respite is gained in a 20 foot patina section, though that patina ends in which, the final crux is encountered: An exceptionally long lock-off move from a good hold to a good hold with a minuscule left finger edge to do all the foot building. What a good route. Once again, I was thankful to have my Tenaya Tantankas so I could trust the tiny smears and edges.
|
| Barbarians at the Gate |
I finished the day with the onsite of the classic "Energizer" 5.12a. This awesome overhanging arete is on the "Black Sheep Boulder." It starts out kind of easy, good holds, though at about half height, the start of the crux begins - A big move to a giant handle-bar hold...and when you get the hold, you have no feet!! How can you have such a big hand-hold and have no feet? Well...a heel-hook leads to a serious of powerful moves up the arete, where the crux ends...as you clip the chains!!
|
| Energizer |
Terrible Forecast, Great Climbing!
Man! What a weekend. I started mine early. The weather forecast for last friday was percent, then decreasingly bad. They got the rain part right, but it didn't rain until well into the day Saturday which was perfect!!I bought a canoe Friday morning at Cabelas and promptly strapped the thing to the top of the car, and drove to Plum Orchard lake. A moderately sized man-made lake about 30 minutes south of Fayetteville (NRG.) The plan was to fish in the morning until my buddy Joe, a school teacher, got off work then we were going to head to Beauty Mountain. Well, the water is still too cold for Bass (despite what Matt Stark may say and catch) so I didn't catch anything, but had a great time paddling around on the lake!
I met Joe and we headed to Beauty. Conditions were just perfect. Cool (chilly) but sunny...about as good as it gets. My major target for the day was "Gun Club" 5.12c.
Gun Club 5.12c:
This ?100 foot route is a pretty serious pitch. Lots of HARD climbing and some serious run-outs. Established by Brooke Sandahl in 1989, this slabby to gentle overhanging pitch starts with 4 bolts of easy climbing (maybe 10+) then you get right into the business. The well-defined crux centers around terrible feet, a so-so high right pinch, a minuscule edge and a desperate high right high-step. I know, I said high twice there, but its a REALLY high right high-step. You get a good to decent rest after this, the immediately launch into 3 more bolts (and a piece of gear for good measured) of 12- climbing - 3 hard boulder problems separated by rests.
The first is some techy, out of balance sidepull moves culminating with a deadpoint (or high reach/lockoff) to a jug. You wish there was a bolt here, but the next boulder problem is techy and powerful 11+ climbing to a so-so clip. 1/4 pad crimpers but good feet. I actually get a piece of gear in the middle of this once, since it would be a 40+ foot fall if you came off at the next clip..onto slab. Kind of ugly. Make sure you bring a Yellow C3 or equivalent. Of the three post crux cruxes, I felt the most confident on this one - I'm able to use my tall guy arms couple with my short gun legs to get a good right undercling and uber high feet to reach the first 1/4 pad crimper then clip.
The third boulder problem is the one that I worried most about. Its a series of small but positive knobs leading to a "GO FOR IT BAHHH!" move to a right gaston with a pinch. The feet here are pretty bad and though I tried many other sequences, my best beta ended up being a full extension dead-point to this right gaston with a decent pinch. From here, you're staring right at the bolt, and with a full extension leg, need to do a few baby smears to get your left foot on the first good knob then you're in a full - on chicken wing to clip. Yeah...chicken wing to clip...Sucks right? I called slack a good 3 seconds before I even thought about pulling up rope...getting shorted on that one would be a game ender. Anyways...get that one clipped and its another move of 11d (easy, though you gotta dead point again off two 1/2 pad incuts but good feet) to a jug.
From here, there's a really run-out section of mid range 5.10 to a full "stand there as long as you want" rest. The rest of the route climbs maybe ohhhh. 40 feet with two bolts. Its runout and not all the holds are good, but there's enough of them that you'd in like flin.
After sending that route, I was super stoked...and just kinda ran around at the crag all psyched and talking like a 15 year old high school dude after his first date with his 11th grader girlfriend.
I think I'll continue Saturday's climbing post in the next post (it wasn't as exciting..)
Training is paying off!
I'm down 14.8 lbs as of this morning. And man..what a difference I can feel in my climbing. This weekend was beautiful. 50 degrees on Saturday, though following a heavy snow, a lot of the rock in the morning was drippy. Incredibly, though, with the blazing sun at Beauty Mountain, just about everything dried out!I started the day by onsighting the classic (cough cough) 5.8 off-width - Momma's Squeeze Box. It was actually a good pitch, though I had to have my belayer throw me a set of nuts! You need small nuts for this one...go figure right?
Then it was game on for me. My project at that buttress is the intimidating "Gun Club." Gun Club starts out kinda easy for three bolts, then gets right into the business - a hard - in you're face slab/face move off a sick right pinch (kinda sucks because the glue is slick) with hard, techy feet and a difficult left high-step. A bad crimp for balance leads way to a good left gaston edge. From here, its another 3 bolts of techy and powerful gently overhaning 12- climbing, then its just run-out 5.11 climbing for ANOTHER like 50 feet and 3 bolts to the chains.
I was stoked with my progress. My first go, I went bolt-to-bolt working out the moves, skipping the crux move (stick clip). I did all the other moves basically first or second try, then lowered off and took a big rest. Then, I dialed in on the crux move, figuring out the beta. I was able to do the crux move three times in a row with the 2nd and 3rd go being crisp. On my 4th go, I ripped off the pinch, losing a bunch of skin! Called it good, took it to the chains and called it a day.
Day 2 was at Cotton Top, which is actually shady in the morning and subsequently was pretty wet, though my project for the day "Intergalactic Orcas" was thankfully dry. I brought my bolting stuff. I had not been on the route, but heard that the end need to be "fixed" which I promptly did by adding a bolt. I then "warmed up" on the route since it was the only dry and open option, doing all the moves first go, though cold. I took a second RP burn, but numbed out and 1 hung it, sending it pretty easy on the third go. Its always nice when you achieve your goal for the day early in the day!
I finished the day by working "Final Twilight" a distinctly height dependent 5.12b that I put up about a year ago. Included are photos of Fred Gomez working "Coal Train" 5.14a at Beauty Mountain.
 |
| Intergalactic Orcas 5.12b |
 |
| Fred Gomez - Coal Train 5.14a - Beauty Mountain |
 |
| Fred Gomez - Coal Train 5.14a - Beauty Mountain |
 |
| Fred Gomez - Coal Train 5.14a - Beauty Mountain |
Pre-Climbing Season Training
Having a gym in Charleston (now for a little over a year), has changed my regiment, though the basics are the same: Try to be a better climber than I was last year and I feel like I'm taking significant steps toward this goal.
Mainly, I've been running my butt off and seriously dieting. I've completely given up all "diet" sodas (and regular sodas for that matter) as well as many other crappy, heavy foods etc.
I'm proud of my February Run log and am looking forward to another 3 weeks of hard running. I originally designed a 6 week running program, which I am planning to stick out for the next 3 weeks, evaluate and then go from there.
I had a couple awesome trips this past month as well. A few weeks ago, we climbed at Rumbling Bald in North Carolina. This was my second trip here and I really loved the place. The rock is Gneiss, a "granite" feeling rock which requires rather difficult foot work. I was really impressed with my Tenaya Ras as I was able to grip and edge on the smallest holds. I was happy to return to send several of my projects from the previous trip and put to bed several more problems.
I did "Lost Cause" V5 first try, only to chuffer out on the topout! I was so bummed!! I realized on this trip that my toping out skills were falling behind, so I decided to dedicate the trip to working on hard topouts! I did get Lost Cause after figuring out some basic topout strategies but man, what a heartbreaker that first try was!!
My second trip was to the Red River Gorge last weekend. The red is close to me (less than 3 hours) so it makes a good easy weekend trip away from the New River Gorge. We climbed at Left Flank and the problem with Left Flank, like may crags at the red, is that I've already done all the routes up to 12c. Well, I decided to give the impressively steep and overhanging "Stunning the Hog 5.12d" a go. I was glad I did. The first go, I managed to do all the moves - bolt-to-bolt, though I had to figure out the crux a bit. I put four more burns in on the route, realizing that all my winter bouldering has been detrimental to my endurance, though endurance has always been my natural strength, so I'm pretty sure I'll put this one to bed pretty fast when I come back.
My finger skin was awesome, but funny enough, the limiting factor my second day was my palm skin (jug rash). Ouch! I tried this "new" route at the Solar Collector (Same problem with left flank - I've done every route there), a Seigrist route called "Space Junk" 5.12c. I had originally spotted the line several years ago, but have decided that I won't develop at the red "too far of a drive to put that kinda work in." Low on skin I managed to do all the moves first try, though the second try, I was feeling pretty tired and though, doing all the moves, made a bad show of it, even off the hang. I'm pretty confident I can do this one next trip as well though I'd need to be fresh for it!!
Photos from Rumbling Bald
Pre-Climbing Season Training
Having a gym in Charleston (now for a little over a year), has changed my regiment, though the basics are the same: Try to be a better climber than I was last year and I feel like I'm taking significant steps toward this goal.
Mainly, I've been running my butt off and seriously dieting. I've completely given up all "diet" sodas (and regular sodas for that matter) as well as many other crappy, heavy foods etc.
I'm proud of my February Run log and am looking forward to another 3 weeks of hard running. I originally designed a 6 week running program, which I am planning to stick out for the next 3 weeks, evaluate and then go from there.
I had a couple awesome trips this past month as well. A few weeks ago, we climbed at Rumbling Bald in North Carolina. This was my second trip here and I really loved the place. The rock is Gneiss, a "granite" feeling rock which requires rather difficult foot work. I was really impressed with my Tenaya Ras as I was able to grip and edge on the smallest holds. I was happy to return to send several of my projects from the previous trip and put to bed several more problems.
I did "Lost Cause" V5 first try, only to chuffer out on the topout! I was so bummed!! I realized on this trip that my toping out skills were falling behind, so I decided to dedicate the trip to working on hard topouts! I did get Lost Cause after figuring out some basic topout strategies but man, what a heartbreaker that first try was!!
My second trip was to the Red River Gorge last weekend. The red is close to me (less than 3 hours) so it makes a good easy weekend trip away from the New River Gorge. We climbed at Left Flank and the problem with Left Flank, like may crags at the red, is that I've already done all the routes up to 12c. Well, I decided to give the impressively steep and overhanging "Stunning the Hog 5.12d" a go. I was glad I did. The first go, I managed to do all the moves - bolt-to-bolt, though I had to figure out the crux a bit. I put four more burns in on the route, realizing that all my winter bouldering has been detrimental to my endurance, though endurance has always been my natural strength, so I'm pretty sure I'll put this one to bed pretty fast when I come back.
My finger skin was awesome, but funny enough, the limiting factor my second day was my palm skin (jug rash). Ouch! I tried this "new" route at the Solar Collector (Same problem with left flank - I've done every route there), a Seigrist route called "Space Junk" 5.12c. I had originally spotted the line several years ago, but have decided that I won't develop at the red "too far of a drive to put that kinda work in." Low on skin I managed to do all the moves first try, though the second try, I was feeling pretty tired and though, doing all the moves, made a bad show of it, even off the hang. I'm pretty confident I can do this one next trip as well though I'd need to be fresh for it!!
Photos from Rumbling Bald
I’ve been running….and dieting
In the continuing effort to be a better climber, I've set a 6 week run/diet block for myself. I know darn well about myself that I can be a bit obsessive and also, a bit ambitious, but these two tend to lend themselves together allowing me to achieve my obsessive and ambitious goals.I did a "warm-up" week where I did a series of short runs. The plan is to run twice a day, with a long run "laddering up" and a shorter constant run "typically 5k."
So far, the running has been going well. This is my favorite time of year to run and despite freezing all my appendages off, I rather enjoy my runs.
I've also been keeping a strict food diary, using Cronometer, which my friend Ashley Hamilton showed me years ago. Its a free program for the computer + online that tracks the foods you eat so you can see which foods are "REALLY HEAVY" and which foods are light. For example, a rack of ribs is like 2500 calories! Where as a Panera Greek Salad is about 400 calories.
I've also decided to give up Coke 0 (and any soda products, especially diet) once and for all. Its been two solid weeks and I don't even miss it...
I figure if I can climb 12d and boulder V7 at my weight now, if I lost 20 lbs, I'd be a crusher!
Here is my run log so far.
Rumbling Bald!! AWESOME
As I left my home at 6am friday morning, I shuffled out through about six inches of snow. Snow in Charleston is rare. We DO get some snow though its about 50/50 if we get any major snow accumulation to stay on the ground more than a day or two...and by major accumulation, I mean more than half an inch!We were seriously worried about climbing, but decided to put our faith in the weather report for Lake Lure, NC - 50 and sunny for Rumbling Bald. Man. What a good idea. The climbing (bouldering) at Rumbling Bald was AWESOME. Conditions were perfect. 50s and sunny, which is shorts/pants weather with a light sweater. Conditions were great and the gritty gneiss was spectacular.
The densely packed boulder field with soft, flat landings is one of the better boulder fields I've been to. The climbing itself reminded me a lot a cross between LRC (Stone Fort in Chattanooga) and my childhood bouldering area - Coopers Rock in WV. Though there are some roofs, most of the problems tend to be face climbs up perfect 15-20 foot tall boulders.
One thing that really stuck out to me was how RICH Lake Lure, NC is. Surrounding this incredible lake are tons and TONS of really really nice houses. Each of these HUGE houses has a super nice boat house, no doubt accompanied by a sweat boat. If I were ever to decide to be rich, I'd want to have a vacation house here.
The climbing here was techy, especially with the feet. Foot holds were really ... well... technical. Difficult and delicate smears, lots of core. Tiny crystals and bumps on otherwise featureless rock often made the difference between send and splat.
Some problems that really stood out to me were:
Basketball Mantle V3.
A low sit-start and some easy face moves culminate to an.....ohhhhhhhhhhh boy mantle! Really excellent and reminiscent of a classic HP-40 problem.
 |
| Basketball Mantle V3 |
Lost Cause V5. An unlikely but perfect problem. This route climbs a 10' 20-30 degree face, starting on a low jug. A hand-heel match leads to a cross over right hand to a good edge, then some foot setting, then a BIG move to a decent hold. Hard to explain, but this was probably one of the best problems I climbed on at Rumbling Bald.
 |
| Lost Cause V5 |
Slave Driver V4. The classic problem is short, but packs a punch!! A low start on a sloper leads to some tick-tacking up a gently overhanging face, finishing with a GIANT move to some slopers and a rather dicey mantle!!
 |
| Slave Driver V4 |
 |
| Brackish One V4. |
Post Comp Blues…NOT!!!
Post comp in the gym is honestly, my favorite time of the year. Ater having spent a solid week of work setting and doing very little actual start hold to finish hold climbing, I'm super psyched to start trying to piece together all the comp problems!.....If you're not a regular stalker, I'll give you the background information. We had a comp at the Energy Rock Gym in Charleston, WV, in which I helped set. We ended up with 77 problems which is roughly 1/2 of the total amount of problems we tend to have in the gym.I'm getting super stoked for a trip to Rumbling Bald. I have never been to Rumbling Bald, but from what I hear, the climbing is simply AMAZING!! and I hear the bouldering is really good too!! (We are going to boulder.)
Expect some photos and a few blog posts about my impressions of the Bald when I get back.
Here are some comp photos. This gallery will probably be up for another couple months.
Comp Images
and a few if you don't want to click...
