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All posts by Erica Lineberry

Pilot Projects – aka The Day of Reckoning

If you’ve been following the blog for the past few weeks, you’ll probably remember that my friends and I have all been on a search for significant sendage on some of the best lines at Pilot Mountain.  My climbing partners have thankfully been gracious enough to allow me to pick their brains a bit so that I can share multiple perspectives on projecting strategies.  Since Steve (aka Crag-Daddy) was the only one that scored a send on our last visit to the area, the rest of us couldn’t stay away.  So two weeks later we returned with guns blazing, ready…Read the rest of this entry →

Cameron and Jonathan Horst – aka the Send Brothers!

It’s been a couple of months since I’ve done any interviews, so I figured the best way to make up for lost time was to bring you two interviews for the price of one!  Prepare to be absolutely amazed (and also a little bit sheepish, since these boys are more than likely hiking laps up your projects for their warm-ups…)  Cameron and Jonathan Horst (or Cam and Jon for short) are the sons of training guru Eric Horst, author of numerous books on climbing-specific training, including the well-known titles “How to Climb 5.12,” and “Training for Climbing.”  I first met…Read the rest of this entry →

A 5.12 for Mother’s Day (and a bunch of other awesome stuff…)

The build-up to this weekend at the New was admittedly a bit chaotic.  But despite last-minute partner bailing, a forgotten ankle brace, and a moody weather forecast, this Mother’s Day ended up being the best yet!  I had two goals in mind – to send as many hard .11′s as I could, and to get redemption on a 5.12 project from last summer… Day 1 Routes (Butcher’s Branch and Seven-Eleven Wall): The Greenpiece (5.10b):  I’d only been to Butcher’s Branch one other time, and it was almost exactly 4 years ago.  I remember having an epic almost-onsight of this route…Read the rest of this entry →

The Smoo(oooooo)th Quickdraw from TRANGO

Trango has a new quickdraw called the “Smooth Quickdraw.”  To be honest, my initial thought was that their marketing department must not have been trying very hard. I mean, when you call something “smooth,” all you’re really saying is that said object has a continuous, even surface, free of bumps or ridges, right? If that’s our working definition, then every quickdraw I’ve ever owned would be considered “smooth.” It seemed like Trango’s naming system was similar to those people that name boulder problems based on some obvious, over-used characteristic (“The Arete,” “The Egg,”, or “Big Crack.”)  Descriptive, yes.  Creative, not so…Read the rest of this entry →

A Weekend of Projects – Part 2 (Pilot Mountain)

I mentioned in my last post that I’d be separating the weekend out into two posts, since each day was so different from the other.  I thought it would be fun to change things up a bit, so rather than the typical play-by-play trip report, I thought I’d focus on “projects.”  For those non-climbers out there, the term ”projecting” is used to describe the process that one goes through to successfully redpoint a route near or at their limit.  A route is considered “sent” (aka redpointed) when the climber is able to lead the route from bottom to top (bringing the rope up with them…Read the rest of this entry →

Slabster’s Lament 5.12a/b – The Lament is Over…

Every now and then a route deserves to be memorialized by a post all to itself. In the case of Heresy (5.11c) out at the Obed, it was because of my first impression of it when I first laid eyes on it, several years before I was strong enough to even think about sending it. With Dave the Dude (5.11d), it was because the line was just that good – not only was it a classic in every sense of the word, but it was a culminating finale to a fantastic trip in the Red River Gorge, and thinking about…Read the rest of this entry →

Tales of a Broken Talus – 7 Lessons Learned.

So it’s been 75 days since my ankle went snap, crackle, pop on an otherwise delightful winter afternoon at the crag.  Since then I have been on a rather emotional roller coaster ride of thoughts, feelings, and mental processing.  Thankfully for me however (as well as everyone who has to put up with me on a daily basis…), that roller coaster has slowed down substantially in the last few weeks as my life has slowly but surely crept back to “normal.”  Looking back throughout the recovery process, Ive realized that this whole ordeal has been quite a learning experience for me, so I…Read the rest of this entry →

A Whirlwind of Local Press

Any active moms out there wanna know the best way to get your soapbox message about healthy outdoor families out there for the world to see?  For starters, you could break your ankle…It did seem rather ironic that the minute I turned into an invalid folks couldn’t wait to talk to me about my active lifestyle!  While part of me felt somewhat hypocritical touting the benefits of family adventures while I was stuck at home on the couch, it at least gave me something to focus on besides feeling sorry for myself.  Here’s a few quick blurbs about some of the latest…Read the rest of this entry →

New River Gorge: Round 2 (aka Let’s Stop Playing Games)

Considering our history with rainy weekends and the New River Gorge, we are all too aware of how fickle spring weather can be – so another weekend of sunny ad 70′s was too tempting to pass up, even though we were just there last weekend!  It also didn’t hurt that our family has been in real rock withdrawal over the past 6 weeks due to me and that ugly black boot (which is currently perched high upon a shelf in the garage, hopefully to never be resurrected again!)  So once again, we loaded up the car (this time we weren’t as rusty!), and hit the…Read the rest of this entry →

A New Season at the New River Gorge

 As we packed up our climbing and camping gear as a family on Thursday afternoon, I realized that it had been quite a while since we’d done this.  Our last family camping trip had been at the New last October, our last day multi-day climbing trip had been at the Red just before Thanksgiving, and our last day trip at the crag as a family had been at Hidden Wall 8 weeks prior when I fractured my ankle.  To be honest, I was feeling a bit rusty.  Family Packing Hour used to work like a well-oiled machine – but this time…Read the rest of this entry →

Alias

Erica Lineberry

Hometown

Charlotte, NC

Motivation to Climb

Enjoying a day outside in the mountains with friends was the original draw, but as I got more and more into the sport, the motivation became more personal. I love the athletic challenge, as well as the problem-solving aspects of working out all those subtle nuances that finally unlock to make a route “go.” Nowadays a big part of it for me is being a role model for my son (and soon-to-arrive daughter), and teaching them that the best of fun is had AWAY from a TV screen.

Most Memorable Climb

In 2012 I had a goal to send “Twelve 5.12’s in 2012.” Prior to that year I’d only had one 5.12 redpoint, so knocking off one per month was definitely going to be a challenge – physically, mentally, and even logistically since we climb as a family. After a broken ankle got me off to a rough start for that year, I worked hard and was able to snag my 12th tick with a month to spare. Having a year-long goal like that was very memorable because I learned so much during the process – obviously about climbing and projecting routes, but also about myself.

Favorite Climbing Spot

Hands-down for me would be the New River Gorge. Aside from the obvious reason that the climbing is world-class, it feels like a second home to us, as our family spends most weekends there during good weather (and often during not-so-good weather…) Choosing just one climb there is almost impossible, but if I had to choose right now I’d say Freaky Stylee (5.12a), at Endless Wall. Lots of hard, sequency moves with pretty good rests in between, culminating with big whipper potential at a stopper crux just before the anchors!

Bio

A lot of people wouldn’t think that babies and climbing are lifestyles that can co-exist, but Erica Lineberry is living proof that it can be done successfully! Erica first tied into a rope back in 2006 and has been hooked ever since. Her biggest, most exciting adventure to date began in 2010 – motherhood. A firm believer that starting a family doesn’t mean the end to climbing, Erica climbed throughout her entire pregnancy, and was back on the sharp end 4 weeks post-partum. Ironically, Erica and her family are now logging more days on the rock per season than ever before, and she has been able to send a full number grade harder than her pre-mom days. Now the family is expanding yet again, with baby #2 on the way in early March! While climbing with TWO kiddos will no doubt take some extra effort, Erica and her family are looking forward to the challenge. Professionally, Erica is a freelance writer, and blogs regularly about tips for family adventuring with kids over on her website, Cragmama.com.

[full bio]

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