Trango Builds Grassroots Athlete Team – Applications Accepted!

Trango is accepting applications for our Grassroots Athlete Team, and we’d love to hear from YOU! If you want to support the brand you love in exchange for the gear you love, check out the details at this page: www.trango.com/athleteprogram.pdf

We’ll be accepting applications until March 1st, 2012.

Revised Cinch Instructions

Revised instructions for the Cinch were published in December of 2011. You can review the revised Cinch instructions here.

Rock Climbing After a Blizzard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is it snowing on your holiday? Raining on your parade? …actually, I can’t help with the second one. But if snow is falling right before you were planning on sending, you better not shout and you better not cry – and I’ll tell you why! Snow may be inconvenient for us rock-hounds, but with a little preparation it usually doesn’t have to stop us. Here are some tips to make escaping FFF (Forced Family Fun) a little easier this holiday season.

1. Beware Falling Debris: After a dump of the white stuff, you’ll probably have to wait about a day for holds to dry off. Once the freeze/thaw cycle has started, keep a sharp eye out for ice, snow, and rock that might fall soon. Wear a helmet, and seek the most sheltered climbs. Be cautious everywhere – especially on the approach.
2. Bring a Tarp: Don’t look surprised when you get to the crag and there is nowhere dry to set your stuff. Unless you want to build a leaning tower of gear, bring a tarp (the ground-cloth from a tent works well).
3. Butt Pad: Toasty buns will make you climb 3 letter grades harder…maybe. In any case, bring a small piece of foam or a sleeping pad to prevent FCS (Frozen Cheeks Syndrome). 
4. Take Sticks: If you’re walking very far or over rough terrain, a pair of trekking poles prove very handy. Old ski poles work almost as well and only cost $5 at a garage sale.
5. High Tops and Gaiters: Even one dump of snow into your shoes is enough to end your day. Prevent it with boots and/or gaiters (even if you look dorky).

What other tricks do you use to extend your season? Share them in the comments!

How YOU Can Achieve 5.12 Glory

Last January I set a goal: to redpoint 20 new 5.12s by 2012.  Have you ever set specific climbing goals with a deadline?  If not, grab a pen and start thinking – its amazing what you can do if you just write it down, and give it a time-frame.  YOU can redpoint 20 5.12s in the year 2012.  I promise.  If you’ve never done something like this, you’ll have to adjust how you think about a day of cragging.  This is a different game, and you need a different strategy.  Here are some tips to reach 5.12 glory:

1. Don’t believe yourself.  If you’re like I was, you’re thinking, “there is no way I can pull this off.”  Well, consider believing me anyway.  I rarely climbed harder than 11- a year ago, and in the past 10 months I’ve sent 32  5.12’s.  5.12 is such a great grade, because it’s really hard, but it’s also really attainable for most people with a bit of effort.  Also, you can tailor this goal to yourself – there is a big difference between 12a and 12d.

2. Start small.  Find a couple low-end 12’s that fit your strengths to gain some momentum for the journey ahead.  Short routes, with short cruxes are ideal to convince yourself you can actually climb 5.12.  Send a couple of these, and you’ll have the strength and confidence to start eyeing longer, more sustained lines. 

3. Climb for quality – climb for redpoints.  The goal is measured by numbers, but it’s about self-improvement and fun.  Don’t waste your time chasing numbers on crappy pitches – find high quality lines that you are excited to spend some time on, and make multiple attempts in the same day.  You’ll be surprised what you can send in two tries, as opposed to onsighting.  Note that, if you fall on an onsight attempt, its helps a lot to go ahead and finish the route, so you know what to expect on the redpoint.  Sport routes will probably make up the bulk of your list, but I encourage you to climb routes that attract you, whether they are protected by gear, bolts, or both.

4. Rest.  Proper rest is essential between redpoint burns.  Don’t expect to climb the same quantity of routes in a day as you used to.  Remember – you’re using a different strategy.  One of my favorite resting techniques is to nap in a “sending hammock.”  These hammocks look just like any other, but they are actually a cocoon of muscle repairing goodness that will carry you to glory.  In any case, don’t rush it.  Rest up, and send hard.

Hopefully, this is enough to get you psyched on some goal.  Tweak it, double it, make it your own.  Get your partner(s) stoked on a goal of his/her own and pursue them together.  If you expect this goal to be your biggest achievement in climbing, just wait until redpoint 18 or so – you’ll realize this was just training, and now you’re really ready to get out there and blow the top off your self-expectations.  And keep in mind – 20 .13’s in 2013 is pretty catchy, too…

Winter Cragging: Low Temps and High Spirits!

It seems like every spring I declare my hatred for Eldorado Canyon (about 10 miles from my office), but every fall I am totally obsessed with it again. Here’s to another winter climbing cycle! I’ve been sport climbing a lot lately, and fiddling with tricky gear placements at the Rincon Wall this weekend was just what I needed. Pair that with about three weeks off nursing a damaged pulley in my ring-finger, and it didn’t take much to get my fill… or so I thought (I had to come back the next day for more).

Eldo is a heads-up kinda place – any new leader embarking on Calypso (5.6) will know what I mean. The gear is (usually) there, but its less than obvious (and less than comforting at times). I’ve wanted to climb Over the Hill (5.10b) for years, and finally got around to it this weekend… twice… Did I mention that I love climbing? I clipped the first fixed pin and entered crux number one. Quickly, I realized I have never done any remotely hard stemming moves – and Over the Hill is all stemming. A featureless right-hand wall meets a somewhat textured left-hand wall in a 90 degree corner – the holds that do exist face the corner. “I guess I don’t have to worry about hurting my finger,” I thought, as I pressed my palms against the walls through the lower crux. Exhilarated by the unique movement, I scampered to the ledge below the upper crux, squeezed behind a tree, and spent five minutes figuring out how to get off the ledge without crashing back through the tree. Want the beta? Left finger mono-pocket, right thumb pressing a dime edge (okay a nickel-edge), and a good left foot. Voila! I was in the upper dihedral ready for the upper crux. A few more press moves and a few more pitons landed me on top – smiling. My partner has climbed this route at least once a year for the past 25 years, so he cruised right up it. Next up was the beautiful, arcing arête to the right, rising 150ft from the talus.

After watching my partner spend an hour fighting the wind and cold on Aerospace (5.11R) I decided against that level of suffering this early in Eldo season. But, (un?)fortunately, the weather was better the next day, and I promised Jeff I would do it the next time we were there. The bottom of the route has potential for a ground fall from 25 feet, so that was quite a “welcome back” to Eldo. Tiny water-formed divots and edges carried me through the delicate crux, and I was greeted by more run-outs. I almost fell 15ft out from a bolt when the micro cam I was testing ripped! So I placed the cam again (because it looked friendlier than 30ft of slack) and backed it up with a brassie. Had I taken a number 3 or 4 BallNut, I would have been totally confident in the gear. Next time!

It all came together, though – one more tough section followed by gorgeous views through the exposed 5.8ish headwall, and the send was complete! The best part will be repeating it for years to come with the comfort of familiarity and, of course, the crucial BallNut.

Eldo season is open for business, and I’m in love with the place – for now.