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After work at the Hole…

I finally put down a new route at the hole last night!  It was hot.  Well.  Not hot, just really muggy (humid!)  It looks like climbing season is starting to grind to a halt here.  Using technology I learned while out west, I carry a temperature and humidity gauge with me to the crag and last night it said 68 degrees and 73 % humidity.  And that was on the ground.  I guarantee it was much higher humidity half way up the routes.

I started out by trying to send the Skull F&ck direct as my warm-up.  I sent the route proper to the chains and took some time to get a good shake.  I went to do the crux and did the hard move, a pull of a small 1/4 pad crimper to a good 1/2 pad crimper, but just didn’t get the 1/2 pad right.  Like I got it with 3 fingers, repositioned it, got it with 2 fingers…lost the thumb catch and pumped off.  I got right back on and took it to the top.

After a longish rest, I was happy to make it through the original route, 12c in itself to the anchors.  I honestly think that upper crux on Skull F&ck is probably harder than the extension boulder problem, but hey. Who’s counting right?

I sat at the anchor on jugs resting and shaking, getting myself stoked for the final boulder problem, maybe a V4 or light V5.  After what seemed like forever, I chalked up big time and launched into it, easily sending the rig for my 23rd lifetime 5.13 and 10th of the year so far.

All photos by Dana Waggener.

The first roof.  Cake up to here.

Using some Hand Jams and setting up for the First Crux

The First Crux – Long move to a Good Edge

A couple more paddle moves.

Some easy stuff and a good rest on two jug sidepulls

The crux of the original route.  Some hard moves on small holds to a big move to a big hold

Some easy campus moves with heels up if you don’t want to campus leads to the anchor

Some Heel Hooks yeah!

Easy to the first anchor and a good rest spot here.

Lots of shaking before doing the final boulder problem.

Left hand to bad 1/4 edge crimper with a high left foot.

A bit of a desperate move to a good 1/2 pad edge (crux)

Moving up and left to the good gaston….Just one more thrutch move and its over!

Bam a jug!  And Voila

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