–Steve Lovelace on Lock-Smith (V3) at Grayson
Its been a while since I’ve posted – I’ve been keeping on the DL the route development which we have been doing at the Meadow – mainly because a lot of my projects got snaked at the “Feed Lot” which we developed this Spring.

This fall – I’ve slowed down – drill maybe about 20 some routes…but this post isn’t about the New.

I had a pretty rough (in a good way) weekend – lots of driving – and climbing – and hiking – HIKING – I hate hiking…truly.

Friday, I did Grayson Highlands State Park – where I met some rad locals – did a bunch of boulder problems – that place is cool – check it out!

Saturday – I climbed at the new at Summersville lake – and unfortunately, I took a really ugly lead fall and I think fractured or badly bruised my heel.–Raina doesn’t think that 8 miles is a long hike (at 3 months old)
I promised Matt, though, that Sunday, I would check out this “new” crag with him – from Google Earth, we could see this 200? foot tall limestone pillar. It is near Seneca Rocks, but the unfortunately fact is that its OUT IN THE MIDDLE of no-where….so (on my fractured heel), we hiked about 8 miles (lots of up-hill and stream crossings) to check out this pillar…the most obviously appealing line was the front face of this giant pillar.

–Another heinous hill on the way in…
So we hiked around the top (the climb being quite crappy.) – well…The top of the formation was narrow and extremely loose. So we decided to rope up and traverse the skyline, placing bolts as we went.

–Matt and Katherine at a stream crossing
It ended up being a major epic. Neither of us fell, but it took quite a while – and we ended up wasting 10 bolts (and the battery to drill them) in 3 150? foot traverse pitches. At one point, I realized that if I fell, I was a dead man…or at least would have hoped to be – no good rock to anchor…just as I grabbed a block the size of a refrigerator – and it teetered. I managed to keep my balance and push the block off the otherway – it was really really scary though….–The gorgeous river.
Finally, when we reach the front face (there was some spectacular trundling involved!), we drilled an anchor and rapped the face. I got about 5 bolts into it when the driving rain and dead batteries ended the day (we had more batteries at the base, but screw it right!) – well, we left the rope hanging – the route is going to be about 160 or 170 feet with intermediate rap stations.

–All chossy limestone looks good up close.
its pretty spectacular.
–After a couple stream crossings, its lunch time.
This weekend, I’m shooting some photos for a friend in Pittsburgh and hopefully doing some bouldering up there…not sure about the weather and the whethers….