Here’s a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for daisies or chicken slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points.

The leader climbs normally until they reach the anchors.

The leader then clips each anchor with a 24″ runner rather than a draw. Check that you’re still on belay and that your belayer is paying attention and lower.

When the second gets to the last draw before the anchors, she unclips the draw and clips it to the other strand of rope.

At the anchors she unclips one of the runners from the rope and clips it directly to her belay loop. Then the other.

Now, still on belay through the last bolt, plus being clipped in directly to the two anchors, she unties and re-threads the lead rope, or even better, pulls up 6′ of slack, pushes a bight of rope through the anchors, ties a F8 on a bight and clips in with a locker or two.

Now the leader “takes” to check the system then unclips and cleans the runners to lower off.

During this transition the leader is never off belay and is always clipped into at least two pieces.

The two runners at the top are nice because if gives the climber room to make the transition without having to have extra gear.

This system works well regardless of whether the climber lowers or raps.

Climb safe,
Mal
@maldaly

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