This past season was the best climbing season of my life.  I owe a lot of it to my friends in West Virginia motivating me to lose weight and also to my friends – Mark and Mike Anderson’s upcoming book – the Rock Prodigy Training Book.
In February – I stepped on the scale and couldn’t believe that I was 194 lbs!  Holy cow!! That’s the heaviest I had ever been in my life.  Funny enough, I had climbed several hard routes – including Lactic Acid Bath -12d, Devil Doll 12d, and a bunch of 12- onsites…well life is hard I guess.   Anyways, here is my weight plot with the routes that I climbed at each weight level.  It was really cool to see the progression in my climbing as I lost the weight.
I spent a lot of my days climbing at the Red River Gorge, where for me, I have always climbed disproportionately well!  Losing the weight really helped, but what else helped immensely was the Rock Prodigy Training method.  I had heard about it from my friends Paul and Lena and of course, from the authors – Mike and Mark Anderson and decided I would give the program a try.  WOW .  I never realized that my grip strength was my weakness until I did a Hangboard workout.  The major obstacle with the program is that you need to take a month off of climbing to do the Hangboard workout, but in West Virginia, the climbing is terrible, so I did it.  I can’t believe how much it helped my climbing!  I had never done a 5.13 in my life, but climbed 11 of them this year!!
Here are my pre-St. George climbing statistics for the year.
Just about all of these are “new” sends for the year.
ReP = Repeat